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S01 E16 - Southern Charms in St. Landry Parish
Dwight Jodon
A walking park in Eunice. One of the best ways to experience St. Landry Parish is by ‘walking’ through its unique communities.
Words by Perry Mack
While living in Southern Ontario, our annual winter migration can be easily described - pack up, hit the I-75, reach Englewood, FL, and then go to the beach. I sometimes regret that we don’t leave earlier and take more time to experience a few interesting detours.
For Canadians, Louisiana is a destination similar to Quebec. Although both have a national identity, each has a unique culture including language, food, and music. Both stand out as utterly distinctive, not only on the North American stage but on a global one as well. St. Landry Parish is a flavourful experience among Louisiana’s Cajun and Creole heritage, which in part, has a surprisingly Canadian origin.
As the story goes, in 1690 a French trader was the first European who negotiated with the Opelousa first nation and nine years later, France named Louisiana a colony, which was subsequently ceded to Spain. Settlers before 1805 were an eclectic mix of French, Spaniards, French Creoles, Spanish Creoles, Germans, immigrants from the French West Indies, and Acadians.
Courtesy St. Landry's Parish
Aside from the local cuisine and excellent music scene, the area offers plenty of outdoor activity.
What an incredible communal mix to seed a new culture. The Acadians were French settlers from Nova Scotia who were expelled in 1763 after France’s defeat by the English in the Seven Years’ War. These immigrant Acadians were led by Jean-Jacques Blaise d’Abbadie who became governor of the territory.
Your Louisiana experience begins west of the Florida panhandle (after a traverse through Alabama) where you’ll find Opelousas, the seat of government for St. Landry Parish, just 30 minutes north of Lafayette in the south-central part of the state.
We find the best way to experience a new destination is by walking. That’s why we recommend the Historic District Walking Tour in Opelousas. Bring your iPad and use the interactive map to wander downtown and visit some or all the 73 locations. Discovering the area on foot allows time to stop longer at the places that intrigue you, and pause for rest, food, and refreshments when the mood strikes.
Courtesy St. Landry's Parish
If you enjoy shrimp with spicy blends, you’ll love the local flavours.
This is where your palette will spring to life with Creole and Cajun spices influenced by those early settlers. ‘Don’t miss dishes’ include Crawfish étouffée and bisque, shrimp Creole and gumbo, and my personal addiction, jambalaya.
In addition to dining out, we also like to cook ourselves. Grabbing some groceries and heading back to the RV for a homemade meal and beverages literally lights our fire. Savoie’s Foods has all you’ll need to prepare an authentic Cajun meal.
Although the descriptions ‘Cajun’ and ‘Creole’ are used interchangeably, the cultures are different. Take some time to visit the Creole Heritage & Folklife Center, which showcases the rich heritage and distinctiveness - from festivals to food - of the Creole culture.
Courtesy St. Landry's Parish
Tony Chachere's Creole Foods is based in Opelousas.
Cajun music is very enlightening and Eunice, LA, in St. Landry Parish is where you can add chords and melodies to your culinary experiences. Start your Saturday mornings with hot boudin sausage and a coffee at the Cajun Jam session at the Savoy Music Center. Then stroll over to the CFMA Cajun Music Hall of Fame and Museum to add a little more seasoning to your new experience.
Do not buy a tacky tourist souvenir. Especially when you can visit the town of Sunset for art, antiques, and collectibles. Shopping therapy is a key component of most cultures and this is where you can shop where the locals buy – and sell.
The Sunset Antique Market is one such place. This is a ‘treasure-filled’ 929 sq m (10,000 sq ft) open-air market located at an old sweet potato farm. If this sounds too daunting, then the Sunset Rail Stop Flea Market might be more your style where more than 20 vendors parlay their wares in this 557 sq m (6,000 sq ft) converted warehouse and feed store.
Courtesy St. Landry's Parish
Just one of the antique shops in Grand Coteau.
There’s no doubt some vintage antique or collectable is sure to find a place in your home. We always enjoy hunting down local artisans and if you do too, then try Jerilyn’s Fused Glass Art Gallery. Wit and whimsy are made manifest when glass is fused into fish, wind chimes, masks and more.
Rounding out our top four in St. Landry Parish is the town of Grand Coteau. That’s not to say that there aren’t many more places in St. Landry’s Parish to lavishly immerse yourself in Cajun and Creole culture. However, it is tough to beat a miracle.
The 70541 is known as the ‘miracle zip code’ where the only miracle in the U.S. that’s recognized by the Vatican is said to have occurred. The year was 1866 when a prospective nun, Mary Wilson, was healed by the apparition of Saint John Berchmans. Say ‘you were there’ by planning a tour of the Shrine of St. John Berchmans when you’re in town.
Courtesy St. Landry's Parish
Sunset is the rubboard capital of the world - a testament to the region’s strong musical roots.
On that pious note, make sure your mobile is fully charged to capture the architectural eye-candy of the Church of St. Charles Borromeo, a primarily wooden structure designed by famous New Orleans architect James Freret in 1879. A good eye can also capture memorable images at the Jesuit Dairy Barn, which will turn 100 in 2025, and the St. Charles Borromeo Cemetery.
At the risk of sounding obsessed with food, the fourth weekend in October celebrates Grand Coteau as the ‘Sweet Dough Pie Capital’ with a festival at the Jesuit College. Visitors can enjoy art vendors, live music, tours and naturally, sweet dough pies. If October doesn’t fit into your travel itinerary, don’t worry as most eating establishments and shops sell this Cajun confection all year.
Detours can often be a very good thing with a little planning. Don’t miss one of the most distinctive cultures in the U.S. where the natural vibes, flavours, history, and friendly atmosphere will entice you back any time of the year.
Courtesy St. Landry's Parish
Hittin’ the note during Mardi Gras. It’s tough to escape the sounds of Louisiana.
RV Parks in St. Landry Parish
Features and Services at a Glance: Easy access, paved roads, picnic tables, shaded sites, 20/30/50 power, free WiFi (park-wide), shower and laundry facilities. Overnight and long-term rates are available
Location: 808 Hwy 742 Opelousas, LA, 70570
Features and Services at a Glance: Twenty full hook-up sites (daily, weekly or monthly), on-site management, camera surveillance, laundry facilities, on-site dump station, 30/50 amp power and sewer.
Location: 2963 Hwy 741 Port Barre, LA, 70577
Courtesy St. Landry's Parish
The L’Acadie Inn RV Park
Features and Services at a Glance: Full hook-up RV sites, level gravel pads (with surrounding grass), large sites for up to 12 m (40 ft) RVs, and cable/WiFi.
Location: 259 Tasso Loop
Eunice, Louisiana, 70535
www.hotboudin.wixsite.com/lacadieinn
Features and Services at a Glance: Ninety-five full hook-up sites including water, sewer and power, big-rig friendly, pull-thru/back-in and spacious sites and free WiFi.
Location: 1717 Veterans Memorial HWY
Eunice, LA, 70535
Features and Services at a Glance: Deluxe and premium back-on or pull-thru (and even covered) sites, concrete pads, 30/50 amp power, pool with swim-up bar, shower and laundry facilities.
1055 North Barn Road,
Henderson, LA,70517