Words and Photos by Kathleen Walls
We picked up our RV, a Minnie Winnie loaned to us by GoRVing — a beauty containing everything we needed. Our first stop was Ocala National Forest where the springs including Alexander Springs, Juniper Springs and other smaller ones are crystal clear. Alexander or Juniper Springs are great primitive camping spots, which both offer canoe and kayak rentals. We kayaked Alexander Springs Run in our inflatable kayaks for about a mile-and-a-quarter. It was alligator mating season and we could hear them making a barking sound, but luckily we only saw impets, anhingas, other wading birds and lots of turtles sunning on logs.
A must-see in Marion County is Silver Springs. It became a state park in 2013 but originally was the oldest commercial tourist attraction in Florida, dating back to 1878. Our ride on the glass-bottom boat offered a glimpse into an unknown world beneath the crystal clear spring. You can also kayak or canoe. The park does offer camping.
Kathleen Walls
Glass bottom boat at Silver Springs
In Citrus County we met manatees. The manatees, like snowbirds, vacation here in winter. We did a "Swim with Manatees Tour" at River Ventures. We got up close and personal underwater with manatees. River Ventures outfits you with a mask and wetsuit. This was the off-season for manatees since most return to the gulf in warmer weather, but there were still a lot hanging around. Captain Laura and guide, Jon P, knew where to look.
We went to Homossasa State Park for a different look at wildlife. It's an unusual state park as it feels almost like a zoo. Naturally, there are the manatees but there is a lot more wildlife.
There's only one animal that is not native to Florida; Lu, short for Lucifer, who at age 59 is the oldest living hippo in the US. He was almost banished when the state bought the attraction as its design was to have only native Florida wildlife. The state sold the other animals but Lu didn’t tempt any other zoo. When word spread, locals protested. Then governor, Lawton Chiles, solved the problem by declaring Lucifer an honorary citizen of Florida.
Kathleen Walls
Manatees at Homosassa State Park
We took an airboat ride with Captain Greg on Ozello Boat Tours which gave us a different watery view. Instead of looking for wildlife deep in open waters, we skimmed the surface of the smaller waterways and saw many wading birds.
We drove deep into the Everglades to camp at Big Cypress Swamp's Burns Lake Campground, a primitive campground with only eight visitor sites and a one host spot. We were there the last two days of the season as it closes in summer because no one wants to be in the Everglades then. The mosquitoes are large enough to saddle and resemble vampires. The last day even the host had left. We headed down Loop Road with water on all sides where we found countless alligators and wading birds.
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Baby alligator off Loop Road in Big Cypress
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Anhinga in Big Cypress
We then traveled on to Chokoloskee to explore the Ten-Thousand Islands with Everglades Area Tours. Captain Don welcomed us aboard. First, we took a pontoon boat ride to Pavilion Point, one of the Ten-Thousand uninhabited islands. Next, we boarded kayaks for a trip along the island's coast which is inhabited by spoonbills, herons, egrets, brown, and white pelicans, and more. We learned about the importance of the mangroves in protecting Florida from hurricanes.
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Osprey in Ten Thousand Islands area
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Fellow kayakers off Ten Thousand Islands
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Captain Don tell about different kinds of shells
Next stop, we experienced something different, glamping at Headwaters Jupiter — an Eco Retreat on the Loxahatchee River. We stayed in three recycled shipping containers, which were actually spacious and well furnished; a beautiful conversion. We faced the river and beautiful Florida plants surrounding us, it was fantastic. A two-hour kayaking trip on the Loxahatchee is included in the experience.
Martin County, unlike other beachfront Florida communities, bans high-rises on the beach. One watery treasure there is Florida Oceanographic Society, a mix of education and entertainment about all creatures inhabiting the Atlantic. The wildlife residents range from stingrays to sharks.
Because Florida's waters offer danger as well as fun and The House of Refuge, from 1876, was the solution to the peril. Today, it is the only building left of the original ten refuge houses built along the Atlantic coast. Its purpose was refuge, not rescue and the keepers were not trained. They just offered a shelter. It later merged into the Coast Guard.
Kathleen Walls
Author roasting a marshmallow at campfire in Burns Lake Campground
The museum, set directly on the ocean, tells the story of the original refuge mission. You'll find artifacts of the shipwrecks that happened here. There are also artifacts of the native people who lived here long ago.
Jonathan Dickerson State Park is a jewel in Martin County. Aside from being a perfect place to camp or RV, it has an observation tour with a view from the Indian River to the ocean. Naturally, there are alligators here but lots of other wildlife as well. There were two momma sandhill cranes and their babies who got almost close enough for us to touch.
A unique attraction here is the cabin of Trapper Nelson, legendary Wild Man of the Loxahatchee. He was involved in some unlawful activities and either was murdered or committed suicide in this cabin. His ghost is said to roam the park. You can take a tour by boat to his cabin.
Florida's waters hold so many secrets. They whisper to those who venture out into those waters.