1 of 7
James.Stoness
Atnarko River
River and mountains
2 of 7
James.Stoness
Atnarko River
Bald eagle
3 of 7
James Stoness
Atnarko River
Bear viewing stand
4 of 7
James.Stoness
Atnarko River
Distant peaks
5 of 7
James Stoness
Atnarko River
Duck family
6 of 7
James.Stoness
Atnarko River
Mountain glaciers
7 of 7
James Stoness
Atnarko River
Tweedsmuir Park Lodge
Story & photos by James Stoness
It was early morning when we climbed into the McKenzie drift boat, just four of us and the oarsman. Nearby, Tweedsmuir Park Lodge lay quiet, a small, almost insignificant red roofed building, dwarfed by the high mountain behind it. Will there be bears? Let the adventure begin!
In the spring of 1893 one of Canada’s greatest explorers embarked on a cross country trip to eventually reach the Pacific Ocean. We may hear more about the exploits of Lewis and Clark south of the border, but in 1894, Sir Alexander Mackenzie was the first to cross the continent by land, and with only eight others accompanying him. He beat the other expedition by several years.
His trip was extremely difficult and if you’d like to experience some of the route you can hike the Mackenzie Heritage Trail in British Columbia’s Tweedsmuir Provincial Park. This park has some of the most exciting scenery available almost anywhere on the continent, with massive mountains, explosive waterfalls, lazy sky blue lakes, and spectacular views.
At the south end of the park is the Atnarko River which runs into the Bella Coola River. Both rivers are prime areas to view bears, as well as bald eagles. Tweedsmuir Park Lodge commands a beautiful location below the cliffs and is just a few steps from the Atnarko River. What a great combination, a beautiful place to lodge, and a handy location to book a float trip.
The McKenzie boat shoved off and drifted into the current. The valley walls seemed incredibly close, a result of their great height, and the narrow meandering river whose curving path prevented us from seeing to far ahead. We were hoping to see the great bears, but we were intensely watching the water for signs of salmon. Sylvia was the first to spot one, which turned into a small school of less than a dozen.
That was good news! Then I saw a bald eagle waiting in the trees. More good news, but still no sign of bears. But why the interest in the salmon and the eagles? The bears don’t walk down to the river for a drink, they come when the fish arrive. The bald eagles will be first to come. They seem to know when the salmon are on the way, and there will be many eagles when that happens. And then the grizzlies come fishing.
I have seen entire families of grizzly bears in the water. One may sit lazily in a spot where the rapids are strong. His quick eye will see an upcoming fish. A great paw reaches over into the water, and a salmon becomes lunch. Another will make a run up the river, splashing and making a lot of noise. The salmon is so confused by this it becomes an easy target. Another meal! A different bear stands on the bank, and suddenly leaps into the river, capturing his fresh meal.
On this river drift, the fish were scarce, only one bald eagle, and absolutely no bear. We were too early. The oarsman said we were seeing the first of the run and the river would soon be filled with fish, just not today.
It didn’t matter that much. We were floating on a river in the midst of amazing mountain scenery. The day was pleasant, and only the gurgling water passing by the boat made any sound, although sometimes the gentle quacking of a mother duck leading her chicks across the river interrupted the solitude.
We drifted slowly past the bear viewing platform of Tweedsmuir Park Lodge, slipped around a curve in the river and saw a huge bald eagle cross over to a tree and land. Judging by the scarcity of eagles, and fish in the river, it seemed very unlikely this would be a bear day for us. Our boat guide told us that it was amazing how quickly the rivers filled with salmon once the first schools arrived. After that they would fill the river from shore to shore on a good year.
After rounding the next curve we didn’t care if it was a great year for fish, or not. A view up a green tree-clad valley ended with a row of jagged grey peaks, backdropped by an intense blue sky. Several glaciers attached to the sides of the mountain looked to be quite stationary but the lower ends showed a raggedness where they were breaking up.
When Ken, our guide, saw a calm spot he landed the boat. We climbed the bank and sat down on some fallen trees to have a picnic lunch. It was a perfect spot! The drifting green river, the nearby opposite shore running up to the base of the mountains, and the singing of the birds made it a place one could stay in forever.
Too soon we were loading the boat on the trailer and heading back along the tree lined road to the lodge. We remember the good times we had on the river and would like to go back again. Even if you don’t think you have time enough to drive in to the Bella Coola Valley from Williams Lake, you could fit it in with some planning. The drive itself is great, and the treatment you get at the Tweedsmuir Park Lodge makes it a perfect place to prepare for a float trip on the river.
Camping in the park is rustic and limited so it it’s better to find an RV site further west in Hagensborg or Bella Coola.
For additional information: