Quinton Neufeldt
Story and Photos by Quinton Neufeldt
I enjoy visiting different provincial parks north and east of Ontario’s Great Lakes. Over the last few years, I kept noticing an intriguing area on Google Maps called the Chapleau Crown Game Preserve, approximately five hours northeast of Sault Ste. Marie. I was interested in the quality of wildlife viewing that a game preserve could provide as well as the chance to explore a new northern region and get away from the busy urban centre where I reside.
The Chapleau Crown Game Preserve is the largest preserve of its kind in the world. Within its 809,371 ha (2 million ac), Missinaibi Provincial Park occupies 116,110 ha (286,914 ac), which piqued my interest as a great area to spend some isolated time in the wilderness.
This was my first trip to the park and I didn’t know what to expect. However, I learned a great deal from online resources and I could even reserve my site in the park’s Barclay Bay Campground online at www.ontarioparks.ca.
Quinton Neufeldt
There are 36 sites that can accommodate a variety of RVs along with a private group site on the water. All are spacious with large trees and are close to the lake, dump station, animal-proof food storage lockers, fish cleaning house, as well as the extensive dock and boat launch.
Being a ‘true Northern Ontario’ RV destination, electrical and comfort stations are not available and the water was not potable. Although cell service may be spotty, WiFi is available at the camp office any time of day.
I was fine with the limited services as my truck camper doesn’t require a lot of power. For what I do need I obtain from my 100 W solar panel and one battery to run my water pump, lighting and a few small appliances. I also use propane for my truck camper’s refrigerator and stove.
Getting to and Staying at Missinaibi
For many RVers, the trip to a remote provincial park is just as enjoyable as the destination. Other times, the drive to a busier area may not be as much fun given the traffic conditions and common construction on Ontario highways.
Quinton Neufeldt
One route to the park is via Hwy 17 (Trans-Canada Hwy), running east to west across the North Channel of Lake Huron and around Superior. This can be a busy route with a lot of traffic including commercial trucks, buses, and tourists.
I drove north from the Greater Toronto Area and stopped for the night in Massey, ON. The next morning, I continued on Hwy 17 to Iron Bridge and then north on Hwy 564 and 554, before turning onto Hwy 129 N to Chapleau. This is a scenic route with a lot of opportunities to experience Ontario’s true nature.
Highway 129 follows the Mississagi River with spectacular views of cliffs, the river, rolling hills and forests. After travelling approximately 100 km (62 mi), I stopped at Aubrey Falls. There’s a relatively short hike up through the forest from the parking area and power station dam. Once I reached the top, I enjoyed breathtaking views of the cliffs and thundering water below.
Continuing on my journey, I arrived in Chapleau after another 90 minutes drive and where I stopped for fuel and some groceries. The entrance to Missinaibi Provincial Park is north of town via a gravel forest access road with a distance of approximately 80 km (50 mi). It was raining sporadically through the afternoon so the conditions were a bit muddy. The road is known to get busy with logging traffic, but I arrived around 5 pm without any delays.
Quinton Neufeldt
The Preserve, The Park, and History
The Chapleau Crown Game Preserve was established in the 1920s to protect wildlife after centuries of extensive trapping and hunting. Today, it inhabits approximately 2,500 moose, more than 2,000 black bears as well as lynx, wolves and a variety of flora and fauna. All forms of hunting and trapping in the preserve are strictly forbidden.
Missinaibi Provincial Park was established in 1970 and many scenic areas are accessible only by boat, including Indigenous pictograph sites, waterfalls and rivers such as the Missinaibi, which is part of a canoe route from Lake Superior to James Bay.
Stay and Play
During my visit, I brought an SUP to enjoy Missinaibi Lake. Boat, canoe and kayak rentals are available to further explore the park by water.
Missinaibi Lake spans an impressive 43 km (27 mi), which includes all of its arms, and it would easily take a couple of weeks (or longer) to paddle its entire length. If you’re a serious paddler, marked campsites are located at regular intervals to go as long as you like and are available on a first-come, first-served basis. It also connects to Little Missinaibi Lake, Crooked Lake, and the Upper Missinaibi River.
Quinton Neufeldt
Due to its size, other RVers explained the lake can get quite choppy during inclement weather so it's always best to wear proper PFDs and practise boating and water safety. The weather during my visit was excellent and most mornings it was common to see visitors launching fishing boats.
If you’re an avid angler, the lake is known for excellent fishing. Walleye, lake trout, northern pike, yellow perch, and smallmouth bass are popular. Not only are there a variety of species but they are very active. No boat? No worries. You can even get some action fishing from shore. While I didn’t wet a line this trip, my camping neighbour did and shared his bounty of whitefish with me one evening.
The closest hiking trail is the Barrasso Logging Camp Trail. Spanning 3 km (2 mi) and only accessible by boat, it's worth the trip and where you can check out the remains of a logging camp that operated in Baltic Bay in the 1950s. Otherwise, the campground loop is ideal to stretch your legs and see more of the park.
Quinton Neufeldt
I spent a lot of time on the campground’s sand beach, which is wide and offers easy access to its refreshing waters. It’s perfect for lounging, swimming and wading. Picnics and larger gatherings can also be enjoyed here.
Of course, I was anticipating seeing some wildlife and as I observed several Loons, beavers, and many species of birds, I didn’t see any moose or bears. Regardless, Missinaibi Provincial Park will serve as a wonderful RV adventure. It’s definitely worth the drive to experience the isolation and once here, the outdoor recreation will keep you active the entire time.
The park is open from May to September and for more information visit www.ontarioparks.com
More Facts about Missinaibi
- The park is known for its ancient First Nation pictographs and encompasses one of the largest collections in Ontario.
- The Missinaibi River is one of the largest free-flowing rivers, which is 755 km (469 mi) that travels from Missinaibi Lake to the Moose River and into James Bay.
- Birding is popular through its boreal forest and is known as the ‘Songbird Nursery’ of North America.
- Five extensive backcountry trip options are available that can take from five to 12 days. Two are accessible right from the Barclay Bay Campground. Park your RV, hit the water and disappear into the wilderness.