Perry and Cindy Mack
Drivers rest in the shade next to new but more traditional pulmonias.
Words by Perry and Cindy Mack
The ‘golf cart’ sped past us in a white blur as we stood by the side of the road. We heard it coming like a mariachi stadium concert on wheels. Final verification of the Doppler effect it faded soon after it had appeared. The pulmonia is one of the five main methods of transportation, and often the loudest.
Actually there are six methods of transportation. You could rent a car, or drive your own if that’s how you arrived. You can also rent the equivalent of a UTV on steroids (with a sound system to rival any dance club). All three of these modes of getting around mean dealing with the kind of fast aggressive driving you usually find in large congested Canadian or American cities.
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Perry and Cindy Mack
A brand new Nissan modified into a pulmonia.
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A few antique pulmonias are still available
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Perry and Cindy Mack
Friendly pickup truck drivers are always eager to give you a ride.
Most folks choose one of the five other means of motorized transport. You ‘negotiate’ the fare before you get in. This sounds like a lot of haggling but the fares are fairly consistent but always ask first. However, like all good entrepreneurs, drivers always try to make a little extra when they can. We went to Walmart (a 20 min ride) for 60 pesos but had to pay 120 pesos going back later in the day. He was the only vehicle in sight - a case of supply and demand.
First is the conventional cab/taxi. Unlike the typical North American cab, there is no meter. Ask how much before you get in and it does vary with the time of day. A 20 minute ride mid-day was usually 120 pesos, but evening went to 150 pesos. The cabs were clean, modern, the drivers were always friendly and typically spoke some English. You’ll get A/C if you need it and out of the wind.
I mention wind because the pulmonia is the kind of public transportion not usually available to those of us north of the Mexican border. The original versions are similar to souped up golf carts. Gas powered, open air cars with sound systems that are guaranteed to amaze, astound and potentially cause premature hearing loss.
The Mazatlaners love their music loud. Most drivers will ask you if you want music, so you can decide. If not, ‘menos fuerte’ or ‘less loud’, is a handy expression to know. They are fun to ride in, and seat four passengers providing not everyone is larger than average. I heartily encourage you to take one at least once as they are an iconic Maz experience. If you see a line up of pulmonia (or the pick-ups described next) take a closer look at the vehicles. They are typically white with a canvas top but some are what I considered ‘true’ pulmonia - the mucho macho golf carts - and others are actually Nissan cars also used for cabs, but with the roof cut off and a safari canvas applied. Choose a ‘true’ pulmonia for the true experience.
Number three on our chart toppers is the converted pick-up. Take a small pick-up, usually a Nissan, install a safari top over the bed, add benches along either rail, replace the tailgate with an aluminum gate, add a step at the back, install a used sound system from a 70’s hard rock band, and you’re in business (not including licences and fees). The cab, pulmonia and pick-up all charge roughly the same price for the same distance you need to go, but while the cab and pulmonia both seat a max of four people, the pick-up seats six comfortably, but I’ve seen as many as 12 - with the music pounding - it was a party of twelve.
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Perry and Cindy Mack
Green (tourist) bus with air conditioning.
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Perry and Cindy Mack
Inside the white no a:c and hard seat buses. Notice the 'Sabalo Centro' painted on the front windshield. This tells you the route.
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Perry and Cindy Mack
Official airport taxi stand.
I live in a small city. The low population, widely spread out in four directions makes running a good transit system difficult, with long wait times and multiple transfers to get around. As a result I never take the bus. If I can’t walk the distance, I drive my Jeep. So I was reluctant to try the bus in Mazatlan despite rave reviews especially since we couldn’t see a bustop nearby. Waiting was a mistake. This how it works. Stand at the side of the road, anywhere, no bustop necessary. Stick your arm straight out to signal the driver and he’ll stop for you. That’s it.
There are white buses and green buses - this is important. White buses are older (rougher suspension), typically don’t have padded seats to cushion your tush and are 9 pesos/person. Green buses have padded seats, A/C and cost 11 pesos/person (about 75 cents). The green buses don’t go everywhere, but they do run the length of Mazatlan from Punta Cerritos in the north to the cruise ship terminal in the south - about a 40-minute ride. When you want to get off you can, a) tell the driver where you need to go b) push the red button to tell the driver or c) just stand up and walk to the rear door. The driver stops as soon as he can - no bustop required.
You pay for every ride - it’s not an all day pass, and it does make lots of stops, but it is the most affordable transportation and there is no haggling to get a good deal - same price - all day.
This quickly became our favourite mode of transport and visitors and locals use it equally. The bus route - Saballos-Centro - will get you within a block or three (or just a few steps) to every major attraction you’ll want to see including the Faro (lighthouse), water taxis to Isla de la Piedra (Stone Island), Centro Historico (old town), the Malecon (boardwalk), Acuario (aquarium), and the Sorinanas (supermarket).
Lastly, but our number one choice after the bus, is Uber. The ride share service is a recent addition and functions like Uber and Lyft everywhere. Use the app to request a ride, you’ll know what it costs before it arrives, how long your driver will take to take to pick you up, and you’ll know who your driver is and what his rating is before you get in. These entrepreneurs are not well loved by the cabs, pulmonias and pick-up truck drivers as the cost is usually half of what you’ll pay. A trip from the airport was a flat rate of $450 pesos by cab, $230 pesos before tip by Uber. A trip from Sorianas to our condo was $120 pesos by pulmonia, and $58 pesos by Uber. I’m a big fan.
Some of you may be thinking that regardless of the transportation you choose, it’s cheap. And you’re right. But if, like me, you have a little miser in you, or you just want the best deal and the best service, hopefully you’ll find these tips helpful. If you’re staying in Maz for an extended stay (we were there two months) you’ll find that it all adds up.