Tourism Vancouver/Ben Giesbrecht
Original Tacofino Food Truck serving tacos in Tofino
Words by Cassandra Redding
"Come surfing," my son said. "It'll be fun," he said. Yes, I thought to myself, fun for you. Fun to watch your mother fly butt over toes off her surfboard. But because "I'm not a regular mom, I'm a cool mom," I accepted my first born and his girlfriend's invitation to make the trek to Tofino on Vancouver Island for the weekend. Along with me for the ride was my younger son.
Even though I've lived in BC my whole life, I had only been to Tofino once before and in the time that had passed I had forgotten how magical the area is.
Getting there is a bit of a jaunt, but so worth it and once there you will forget the length of the journey. To reach Tofino by car from the British Columbia mainland, you'll first need to take the ferry from Horseshoe Bay, or Tsawwassen, to Nanaimo. The Horseshoe Bay terminal is north of Vancouver and this ferry route takes just under 2 hours while the Tsawwassen terminal is south of the city, closer to the USA border and it takes just a little over 2 hours. The Horseshoe Bay ferry arrives at the Departure Bay terminal in Nanaimo while the Tsawwassen ferry arrives at the Duke Point terminal just about 15 minutes south of the city.
Getting there:
- Travel north on Highway 19 for 43 km (26 mi)
- Take Exit 60 onto Highway 4 also known as the Pacific Rim Highway) heading west for 156 km (97 miles). The road from Nanaimo is the best part of the journey. We passed through the towering old-growth forests of Cathedral Grove, before driving through Port Alberni, then onto majestic Sutton Pass, and through Pacific Rim National Park Reserve.
- Turn right at the Tofino/Ucluelet junction and drive north towards Tofino for 28 km (17 miles).
By the time we got to our campground we were a bit weary, but walking down to the ocean with its immense stretch of sandy beaches worked its power on our souls. It's pretty hard to be crabby at the beach. Green Point campground, in the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve which is known not only for its beaches but for the lush coastal rainforest, is the only campground in the Long Beach Unit of the park. (For Tofino campground bookings visit reservation.pc.gc.ca)
After taking in the majesty of the beach for a few hours, we ventured closer to town fill our bellies at the famous taco truck, Tacofino. Believe the hype and have a fish taco. Or two. Since 2009, their iconic orange truck has resided at the back of the Live to Surf parking lot. www.tacofino.com
If you are still hungry, not far away is the gelato store of your dreams, Chocolate Tofino. All of the cosy little shop's chocolate, gelato and sorbet is made fresh in-house from whole ingredients blended with natural flavours and is sure to please even the most discerning palette. I had the salted caramel cone, but there was a flavour for everyone (it tastes even better if you get your hardworking son to buy it for you.) www.chocolatetofino.com
Jeremy Koreski
Sandy beaches and surfing in Tofino
After filling our bellies we made our way back to the campground to rest up for our big day of surfing in the morning. There is not much better than falling asleep to the sound of crashing surf.
After an early rise, and a lot of coffee the next morning, we were ready to surf. I might have just been pretending. But I was dressed. Off we went to the Pacific Surf Company. pacificsurfschool.com The helpful and hip staff outfitted us all with wetsuits, booties, and boards - after we signed a consent form of course. (With its reputation as a surf town, Tofino has no shortage of other companies to rent your gear from or even take a lesson. Visit tourismtofino.com for a complete list.)
With four boards loaded on our vehicle, we drove just a little way down the main road to Chesterman Beach. This area is known for being one of the best beginner breaks in North America and this is where many first-time surf lessons take place. We were all definitely beginners, and we really should have taken a lesson. Or at least I should have.
It was a Monday morning, so the beach and surf were fairly empty, making the wide open ocean seem quite appealing for us newbies to get out and ride the waves. My sons gave me a quick how-to lesson but once out in the water I quickly came to the realization that there's no escaping the fact that learning to surf requires a good amount of effort and commitment, especially if you want to transform yourself from a bumbling middle-aged mom to a whitewater warrior.
"Get up, get up," they shouted at me time again whenever I managed to catch a decent wave. And get up, I did. For all of 5 seconds. I am pretty sure those were the best 5 seconds though. Even though no one saw me do it.
There is something super addicting about the sport. I can't tell you how many times I tried to get up (I can't count that high) and even though my efforts were not justly rewarded, I still kept trying. You just want to try again, paddling hopelessly, using muscles you didn't even know you had, and swallowing so much ocean water you are not sure how there's any left, until you find that perfect wave. Maybe it's the power and beauty of the ocean that just makes you believe that the next wave will be the one.
After a long day in the water, with a couple hits to the head (it was a soft board) and numerous bruises to my body and ego, it was time to call it a day. But a great day it was - and I'll be back - after I take a lesson.
1 of 2
Jeremy Koreski
Stand Up Paddle Boarding on calm inlet waters by Tofino
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Jeremy Koreski
SUP in Tofino
Luckily Tofino is about so much more than surfing. After we returned our boards we took some time to visit the downtown area. Visitors can find inspiration at local artist studios, and snag one-of-a-kind pottery, jewelry and photography keepsakes.
For a more a more calm way to explore the surrounding waters, you can dip your paddle during Tla-ook Cultural Adventure's sunset excursion in a traditional Nuu-chah-nulth dugout canoe, or survey the region's rich water habitats with the ecologically focused Tofino Sea Kayaking.
The hiking in Tofino is an ideal way to way to enjoy the scenery, rainforests, and the Pacific Ocean coastline. Most of the trails are within the Pacific Rim National Park - a true BC paradise with its seemingly never-ending beaches, massive rock formations, rare ecosystems and majestic forests.
If you are able to visit during storm season be prepared to be awed. With six-metre (20-foot) waves pummelling the shoreline November through March, thrill-seekers can slip into slickers and explore driftwood-strewn shores; to stay dry, opt instead to tuck beneath a cosy blanket at an inn or resort, complete with views of the crashing waves below.
For a small town, Tofino has an inspiring food scene. It's a fishing town, so beautiful fresh seafood is always on hand, but the creative atmosphere must draw the best chefs to town. Visit the Wolf in the Fog, created their menu after being inspired by the oceans, forests, and shorelines of Tofino www.wolfinthefog.com. Or if you truly want to be spoiled, book a dinner at the Pointe Restaurant a the Wickaninnish Inn www.wickinn.com, with over 240 degrees of Pacific Ocean views.
The beauty of Tofino is uncontested, and there is something magical about Vancouver Island. My son left home to go to university there and never came back. I've been trying to get him closer to home for years, but after visiting him in Tofino, I get it. I'd never leave either.
For more information, or to find out what other adventures await in Tofino, visit www.tourismtofino.com.