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Story and Photos by Barb Rees
Getting to PEI is faster and easier thanks to the 13 km long Confederation Bridge, one of the engineering miracles of our time. Opened May 31, 1997, it’s a “fixed crossing connecting PEI and New Brunswick.” There is no charge to get on the island whether you take the bridge or the ferry, but there is a charge to leave.
Welcome to the island referred to as The Gentle Land or Anne’s Land, and the birthplace of confederation. The Mi’Kmaq call it Abegweit, “Land Cradled by Waves.” With its slower pace, it feels like you’re protected from the insanity of Canada’s larger centres. Come for the red beaches, lighthouses, lobster, historical sites and music.
Gateway Village is a must stop when you come off the bridge. Besides a visitor’s information centre with interpretative displays about the bridge, there are eateries and numerous shops selling island products.
Instead of driving straight through to Charlottetown, we took #10, the North Coastal route past fertile hectares of farmland sprouting wheat, corn and potatoes. It’s the softer, plusher little sister to Newfoundland’s wild ruggedness. The campground at Cabot Beach Provincial Park was the first PEI red beach to wriggle our toes into.
We got permission to boondock in North Rustico behind the Fisherman’s Lobster Supper restaurant, advertising a lobster buffet for $22 and all the mussels you can eat. What a lovely spot with the harbour below and an osprey nest high above. Boondocking in a beautiful coastal setting saved us $30-40 in camping fees. Enjoying our own salad with new potatoes, chicken breast and our own chilled wine saved us $50.
Prince Edward Island National Park, founded in 1937, hugs the Gulf of St. Lawrence with 67 km of protected dunes and habitat. It is home to the threatened Gulf of St. Lawrence Aster, and at risk Piping Plover. There are several historical sites plus camping at Cavendish and Stanhope. We purchased a $13.60 day pass so we could walk on the golden sands of Brackley Bay. The Magdalen Islands are part of Quebec and a 134 km ferry ride offshore.
It’s been six years since we last visited Charlottetown, capital of PEI and meeting place of Confederation Fathers in 1864. This is home to Canada’s longest consecutively running play Anne of Green Gables, celebrating its 50th season in 2014. www.charlottetownfestival.com My cousin Hank Stinson has performed in it for years. His wife Rowena took us on a guided tour of the city, her family’s birthplace. Starting our tour right across from the Stinson’s is the Art Gowan, Confederation father William Pope’s home. Up from Great George Street, the Fathers of Confederation landed in 1847, were met by Mr. Pope, and walked up to Colonial Boulevard to what is now Province House.
The next day we went to the noon hour show Les Feux Follets at Confederation Centre for the Arts. For an hour, young dancers and singers told the story of early Canada. Our history lessons continued at Fanning Bank, the Lieutenant Governor’s residence. The white with black trimmed mansion built 1833-34 is still used. It sits on ten of the original acres Governor Fanning set aside in 1785. The Queen and later on Prince William and Kate stayed there.
Because the beds are held up with ropes, a special tool was used to tighten them for a firmer feel. Thus the expression, “Good night, sleep tight.” Peakes Wharf was packed with people eating ice cream, listening to the musicians. Cow’s Ice Cream claims to be Canada’s best and it is pretty tasty.
Summerside, famous for The College of Piping and Celtic Performing Arts of Canada, is the only year-round Celtic college in North America and is for all ages. 45% of islanders have Scottish origins and 25% have Irish roots, so it’s a natural fit. A 350 seat amphitheater hosts the Celtic Festival. The show Island Storm is presented during the summer months. www.collegeofpiping.com
Summerside also offers boardwalk shows, festivals, and a portion of the Confederation Trail. The Trans-Canada Trail’s birthplace is here. We’ve also been to its most northerly point in Tuktoyaktuk, NWT. We came looking for a farmer’s market to sell at but unfortunately that didn’t work out. Instead, when I posted a picture on Facebook of us collecting red dirt, we connected with a friend living here. Although we only knew each other on Facebook, we had lunch with her and her husband there in Summerside. The land cradled among the waves has much to offer both historically and recreationally. Cross the bridge. Come to Anne’s Land.
Barb Rees, Mètis writer, is the author of four RV Canada books with the fifth due in the fall of 2014. From their home in Powell River, BC, with husband Dave, they have travelled Canada from coast to coast to coast on working holidays since 2003. Information on the books available at: www.write2dream.com