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Story & photos by Perry Mack
Last issue we covered a number of orchard RV parks in Kelowna so you could get a rural farm/orchard experience unlike any other RV vacation. After a few days of rural relaxation though, you may desire something in a more vibrant setting - time to head downtown.
An eclectic mix of gardens and parks are linked by a boardwalk along Kelowna’s waterfront, which rivals any waterfront destination in the world I’ve traveled to, perhaps not in size or historical importance, but in cultural significance to the community, beauty, and diversity. So pack an extra memory card for your camera and walk with me.
Roughly three kilometres of pathways meander along the sun-drenched shoreline, starting at the wetlands restoration on Sunset Drive and ending at Harvey Avenue (also called Hwy 97). The best place to park, especially if you are in a big rig, is the Prospera Place parking lot, which typically has plenty of room during the day – and none at night during an event. Prospera hosts Kelowna’s biggest concerts throughout the year and is home of the Kelowna Rockets WHL hockey franchise.
Once settled in to your parking spot, you can look across the street and see a blazing white 13 metre statue of three intertwined Dolphins in a fountain called ‘Rhapsody’ by Robert Dow Reid. This is your first photo op and an iconic Kelowna landmark. You’re also in Kelowna’s Cultural District. Looking left you’ll see the Kelowna Art Gallery, which has free admittance on Thursday’s courtesy of the Delta Grand Okanagan Resort (which is across the street to your left). Behind your left shoulder is the Rotary Centre for the Arts, which among many other things, hosts Jazz After 5 every Thursday at 5pm. Admission is free so indulge in a glass of the Okanagan’s finest wine, beer or spirits to accompany your evening.
Cross the street, get your picture taken in front of Rhapsody, and stroll the cobble stone walkway around the fountain which leads you past the aromatic flowers of Pioneer Gardens and over Harmony Bridge. On summer days, pleasure boats will cruise quietly beneath you on their way to the locks and out into Okanagan Lake. Occasional pedal boats, shaped like Okanagan Lake’s mysterious lake monster Ogopogo, also ply these calm waters.
Crossing the bridge delivers you onto Tugboat Beach. A wide swath of sand that is one of Kelowna’s most beautiful beaches and one that is least used. In the height of the season, when most other beaches in Kelowna are tightly packed with towels, people and enough suntan lotion to choke an oil pipe line, you can still find space for yourself and your family to spread out. Swimmers cool off close to shore and Yoga paddleboard classes practice meditation in the bay while kayaks explore a short distance away.
You’ll be drawn to the left by grassy knolls, forest, the sounds of waterfalls and streams, and perhaps a concert, but before you do, let’s explore to right where the Rotary Marshes provide a protected wetland. Wander along the boardwalks that extend out, around and through this portion of Brandt’s Creek Estuary Restoration. An osprey nest looms high above and I’ve often seen the birds returning with fish. A myriad number of waterfowl reside here, and on quiet morning walks beavers cruise the waters leaving only a tiny wake to mark their passage.
Circle back towards Tugboat beach and you’ll enter Waterfront Park proper. Some exploration will reveal streams, waterfalls and an island stage surrounded by a grassy amphitheater where bands often play on summer afternoons. Climb the knoll of the amphitheater and you’ll get a view of Okanagan Lake, and access to the boardwalk that wraps the shoreline. If a watersport exists, you’ll see it here.
Following the boardwalk south, you’ll cross the lock where boats from the waterfront condos access the lake, and see the new Kelowna Yacht Club in the distance to your right. Cables from the sailboats clang and ring in gentle breezes while motor yachts cruise in and out of the marina. On the right, next to the boat launch, is Roses waterfront pub, whose outdoor patio is perfect for summer afternoon and evening dinner and drinks. You can watch the shenanigans as inexperienced boaters attempt to launch and recover their boats, beneath the safety of your umbrella and with a cold drink in hand. No you shouldn’t laugh but…
Make your way carefully across the boat launch lanes and then you can’t help but be impressed by the striking lines of the new clubhouse for the Kelowna Yacht Club, which also houses a public restaurant on the first level.
The boardwalk connects Waterfront Park to Stuart Park and another photo op presents itself as the ‘Bear’ statue by Brower Hatcher gazes steadily over the outdoor ice rink (ice only in the winter). The theme of the artwork is a grizzly bear, "Kelowna" being an English translation of an Okanagan/Sylix First Nation word for "Female Grizzly Bear". If you’re walking your dog look down and you’ll see a handy dog water fountain for your best friend. The parks are all dog friendly as long they are kept on a leash and you retrieve any ‘gifts’ they may deposit.
Kerry Park is next which also has a stage with bands playing throughout the summer and with comes the soaring ‘Spirit of Sail’ statue, also by Robert Dow Reid, and also simply referred to as ‘the Sails’ by locals. Yes, pull out the camera again, if you’ve bothered to put it away, and take advantage of a photo op that is a tribute to Kelowna’s waterfront heritage. You’re standing at the base of Bernard Avenue, Kelowna’s main street, choc a bloc with boutique stores, quirky and mainstream restaurants, as well as pubs with outdoor patios. Every ethnic food choice is represented in a two-block walk to the east.
Grab an ice cream at Moo-Lix, it’s expensive but pretty much a meal unto itself. My wife and I just share one on after-dinner strolls. The expanse of City Park is before you, which has a waterpark, skate park, lawn bowling, running track, sports field, playground, picnic area, change room, washrooms and a large beautiful beach. And is very busy all summer long. There are small and large events each weekend from craft fairs to auto shows, so if you love the cacophony of buskers, laughing crowds and kids, this is the place. There is a city parking lot in the park, but unless you come early and are very patient leaving, it can be full, busy and stressful.
I mentioned earlier that you are in Kelowna’s Cultural District. You may have noticed that dotted along the waterfront and throughout the parks are many more public art displays, great and small, that I haven’t mentioned but that will make you stop and ponder.
You can return to your vehicle along the boardwalk or walk east on Bernard Avenue one block and turn north on Water Street. This will take you past more pubs, restaurants, the opposing sides of the parks, Kasugai Gardens, the Tree Beer Institute, the Delta Grand Resort, float plane rides and so much more. Your camera should be as full as your tummy, your feet sore, your mind satisfied and your feeling of well being satiated.