Tom Skinner
Words by Tom Skinner
Of all the National Parks my wife and I have traveled to in the US, Canada and abroad, Jasper National Park in Alberta, Canada is our all-time favourite. It's our number one pick for several reasons; it's relatively close to our hometown, it's extraordinarily beautiful, as most National Parks are, and the photo opportunities for wildlife and landscape are abundant. Before making the trek to Jasper, be sure to check the status of campgrounds. (Whistlers Campground, Jasper's largest, will be closed for the 2020 season due to planned upgrades, which will eventually result in more campsites. Check progress on the following link.
Jasper was opened as a National Park in 1930 with the establishment of the National Parks Act. Although the townsite was rumoured to be named after a cartoon character it isn't quite true. Jasper, the black bear, didn't become the official mascot for Jasper National Park until 1962, after the character was created for MacLean's magazine.
In reality, Jasper was named after Jasper Hawes, who operated a trading post for the North West Company. In 1907, Jasper was established as Jasper Forest Park. Jasper is Canada's largest National Park and shares the Columbia Icefields Parkway with Banff National Park, Canada's first National Park.
While driving through the park, be sure to adhere to posted speed limits as there will be a lot of wildlife. Whenever my wife and I travel to a National Park, we swap driving roles, so that she can drive, and I can take photos. When I do spot an animal, we make sure to get the RV right off the road and if I am going to shoot from inside the vehicle, we shut off the motor to avoid any vibrations which could affect the photo.
I found that the best times for photographing wildlife are early in the morning or later in the afternoon when the light is favourable. Cloudy days are the best because even light falls over the entire scene and there won't be any harsh shadows in the photographs.
We discovered that the best way to find wildlife is to ask the experts, whether it be the park personnel at the entrance to the Park or the staff at the downtown visitor's centre. The staff at your motel or campground are also usually aware of what animals are out and about.
A popular animal sighting in Jasper is an elk, which can be even be found in the downtown area. In the spring, when the elk are calving, you need to be particularly careful as the does are very protective. In the fall, especially the peak of the rut, you need to be aware of aggressive bulls.
Tom Skinner
Open fields alongside the highway are good areas for sighting elk, as well as the area between Old Fort Road and Lac Beauvert parking lot, which have been particularly good in the spring and fall. I have also observed and photographed grizzly bears in the Lac Beauvert area, as well as on the side of Highway #16, close to Becker's chalets.
Both elk and bears are often seen in Whistlers Campground. Rangers in the Park will post signs if bears are in the area - so stay aware.
One of the best trips you can take from Jasper is the drive to Maligne Lake. Maligne Lake is a beautiful lake set in a broad valley and surrounded by the glistening, snow-capped peaks of the Rockies. The lake is 22 km long and is a hotspot for not only wildlife seekers, but also hiking and fishing enthusiasts.
From Jasper, you can take highway 16 towards Maligne Canyon, where you will likely spot deer, coyote, and bears. Turn on to Maligne Road and travel on to the deep, narrow canyon. The scenery is stunning - various trails lead to waterfalls and you might spot some of the fossils that this canyon is famous for.
From Maligne Canyon, the road continues past gorgeous forests and stunning panoramas of the mountains towards Medicine Lake. Keep your eyes open for Rocky Mountain Bighorn Sheep. Frequently they will be found on the edges of the road above the lake. Although the ewes usually don't congregate together until after the October rut in, you should still avoid close contact as they are wild animals and are unpredictable. (I have been charged by a large ewe - they are fast, and their horns are solid.)
From Medicine Lake the road more or less follows the shores of the lake, offering amazing vistas of the water and the mountains, until you reach Maligne Lake. There are signs as you get closer that say you might be close to Caribou. Although I have had no success photographing Caribou in Jasper National Park, other than some cardboard cutouts, I have had good luck photographing moose on the way to Maligne Lake, as well as at the north end of the Lake.
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At Maligne Lake, you will find a visitor centre, a restaurant, and a pier from which boats take visitors to the famed Spirit island. Spirit Island is known for being one of the most photographed areas in the Park. It would be a good idea to book a tour before you arrive. Some of the most scenic trails in the Canadian Rockies can be found here, such as the 44 km Skyline Trail (that ends in Jasper), the Opal Hills or Bald Hills trails, which can easily be done in a day.
Several lakes within Jasper National Park are worth visiting, whether it's for a picnic, photography, or a hike. Lake Annette and Edith Cavell are easy hikes to enjoy and can be found just south of the bridge from Highway #16 to Maligne Canyon.
Pyramid Lake is a kidney-shaped lake that lies at the foot of Pyramid Mountain, a natural landmark that overlooks the town of Jasper. You can find several picnic sites here, as well as boat ramps. Pyramid Lake is connected to the town of Jasper by Pyramid Lake Road and hiking trails, as well as hiking trails to other tourist sites such as Pyramid Mountain, Patricia Lake, and Cabin Lake.
Further afield, and heading north on Highway #16, you can usually find bighorn sheep close to Miette Hotsprings. While along the Columbia Icefields heading south keep your eyes open as you get close to Tangle Creek, where there are spectacular waterfalls. The Icefields Parkway has much to offer and a stop at Athabasca Falls, for a short hike and a few photos, will be rewarding.
The above itinerary is based on a three-day stay, which should give you a chance to visit all the highlighted areas and see the best of Jasper National Park's beauty.