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Dennis Begin
Mojave Desert looking Northwest.
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Photo courtesy of PNG Photos
North Edwards, CA., Mojave Desert.
Words by Dennis Begin
Many snowbirds make their way across the Mojave Desert without giving it much thought and dismissing the desert as a flat, desolate wasteland. In reality, even though the desert appears to be a lonely landscape with is much more than it appears It features a seemingly endless landscape of little shade, cruel daytime heat, and frigid nighttime temperatures, when you take a closer look there is much beauty to be found in this vast desert.
To reach the Mojave Desert, take US-58 East from Bakersfield, California, drive over the Tehachapi Pass and drop down onto the desert floor at 850 m (2,787 feet). The Mojave is referred to as a ‘high desert' or a ‘rain shadow desert', because it is located on the eastern side of the mountains. As a result, vegetation has to survive on 33 cm (13 inches) or less of annual rainfall, making it the driest place in North America. Just the north you will find Death Valley which, at -86 m (-282 feet) below sea level, is the lowest point in North America. The Mojave temperatures range from -4 C (25 F) to 39 C (120 F). With extreme heat and cold, combined with the lack of precipitation and constant wind, it is a wonder that anything grows in this arid landscape.
In driving across the desert, the most common vegetation seen from the highway is the green creosote bush, along with some Yucca and Joshua Trees. Cacti are not plentiful, but there are some cholla, barrel and prickly pear.
From Mojave to Needles, California, total distance across the desert is 345 km (214 mi). Crossing the Mojave on dirt roads in the 1930's was considered dangerous. The vehicle had to be equipped with extra tires, gas cans and a canvass water bag hanging in front of the radiator. Today, Snowbirds need only worry about a full gas tank and a charged cell phone.
Mojave
The Mojave Desert begins at the base of the Tehachapi Mountains and the City of Mojave. Mojave means ‘People of the Water', which refers to the Pipa Aha Macav people who once lived along the Colorado River. The city only has 5,000 people, but this is the City of Rail and Air. After checking into the Visitor Center, head for the Mojave Air and Space Port. Due to the lack of humidity, airplanes like the Boeing 747, Airbus 380 and Lockheed 1011 are stored here. Sadly, some aircraft are destined for the boneyard and cannibalized for parts. The civilian and commercial airport is home to 60 different companies that engage in flight development, advanced aerospace design, and rocket research. One of the most famous occupants on the base is Richard Branson and his Virgin Galactic.
If aviation is not your interest, a half hour drive north of Mojave is Cantil, the Honda Proving Center, where they use three tracks to test Honda and Acura cars/motorbikes. Other tourist sites are the impressive wind turbines on Oak Creek Pass and the Tehachapi Loop Railroad site.
Edwards Air Force Base
The distance from Mojave to the Boron Rest Area is only 40 km (25 mi.) To the south is the Edwards Air Force Base [AFB]. Built in 1933, the AFB was used as a training centre during World War Two, for both airplanes and flight crews. Edwards is famous for various accomplishments. In 1947, pilot Chuck Yeager, in a Bell X-1, became the first to break the sound barrier - he exceeded the speed of sound. The X-15 in the 1960's was the first hypersonic rocket aircraft to reach the outer edge of space. From 1972 to 2011, NASA used the air base to transport the Space Ship Endeavor and Columbia, piggybacked on top of a 747 Shuttle Carrier.
Edwards remains an Air Force Test Center, a Test Pilot School and works in conjunction with NASA's Armstrong Flight Research Center. The objective of the Air Force Command Center is to continue testing airplanes and aerospace systems from concept to combat.
Photo courtesy of Borax Boron Mine
Borax Open Pit Mine.
Boron
Across the highway from the Boron Rest Area is the U.S. Borax Boron Mine, the largest borax open pit mine in the world. Borox is used in the making of glass, ceramics, water softener, detergents, and antiseptics. The Mojave Desert has always had a connection with borax, as it was first mined in Death Valley and then transported to the railhead at Mojave with the famous Twenty-Mule-Teams. Boron, the village, is largely a residential area for the mine and the gas stations at Four Corners [Kramer Junction].
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Barstow Route 66 Sign
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Harvey House Railroad Depot, Barstow, CA.
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Peggy Sue’s 50’s Diner in Yermo
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Barstow Railroad Station Mall.
Barstow
Transportation is the theme of the small city of Barstow. Two railroads, the Burlington Northern Santa Fe [BNSF] and the Union Pacific [UP], use Barstow as a central hub to haul freight. The legacy of the railroads is the Harvey House Railroad Depot, a luxurious Hotel, which now is the Western American Railroad Museum and the Route 66 Museum. Major highways pass through the city, including I-40, US-15 and Route 66. The large number of 1960's Motels on E Main Street testifies to the popularity of Route 66. From I-40, you can see the US Marine Corps Logistics Base, which is a supply, repair and combat support installation.
Four popular tourist sites in Barstow are the downtown wall murals, the Barstow Station [Mall], the Calico Ghost Town and Peggy Sue's 50's Diner.
Barstow to Needles
Barstow to Needles is 224 km (140 miles). If you want to drive the original Route 66, turn south at Ludlow. The road goes through numerous ghost towns including Siberia, Bagdad, Amboy, Goffs, and finally into Needles. As for I-40, it crosses dried out lake bottoms and mountain terrain, including the Mojave National Preserve and South Pass. The major tourist attraction along this section of highway is the Mitchell Caverns.
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Mojave National Preserve along I-40.
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Needles Pinnacle Peaks, Topock, Az.
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66 Motel on E. Broadway in Needles, CA.
Needles
The town gets its name from the pinnacle mountain peaks along the Colorado River, which are actually in ≈. The older section of downtown Needles remains in the 1950's. With a little imagination, you can see Tod and Buz from the TV Show, Route 66, cruising down West Broadway in their 1960 corvette. That really did happen! Needles is also famous for another Harvey House, the El Garces Hotel attached to the Santa Fe Depot. Lastly, if a fan of the movie Grapes of Wrath [1940], visit the 66 Motel to see part of the movie set [Carty's Camp].
Happy Motoring.