The City Different: Sante Fe, New Mexico

Expect a diverse and exciting experience in the Land of Enchantment’s capital city.

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Words by Dennis Begin

Santa Fe, which means holy faith, was part of the Spanish Empire from 1692 to 1821 and after gaining independence from Spain, it was the capital city of the Mexican Province of New Mexico from 1821 to 1846. It was then in 1848 when Mexico signed the Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, relinquishing New Mexico (as well as California) to the United States.

In 1848, Colonel Edwin Sumner of the U.S. Army described Santa Fe as “barren, drab, dusty and poor.”  The city has certainly changed from its beginnings more than a century ago and today, it’s a popular destination throughout the year.

Past to Present in Sante Fe

Sante Fe has a population of approximately 85,000, is the ‘Oldest Capital in the United States,’ and located in the foothills of the Jemez and the Sangre de Cristo Mountains. Conquistador Don Pedro de Peralta founded the city between 1607 and 1610, calling Santa Fe the ‘Kingdom of New Mexico.’

Following the Spanish model called the Laws of Indies in 1542, Santa Fe had a walled presidio (fort), a church, the Governor’s residence (Palace of the Governors) and the Sante Fe Plaza, which today is a popular gathering place with restaurants, art galleries, fashionable boutiques and vendors selling jewelry, pottery and baskets. A National Historic Site, it’s situated in the centre of the city and attracts countless tourists all year.   

Over the decades, city officials have maintained and constructed the city based on the Spanish Pueblo Revival model. All buildings must be constructed in adobe style with earth-tone colours and not exceed the height of The Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi.

Churches

The Spanish Empire could never have been sustained without the Roman Catholic Church. There are three in Santa Fe including The San Miguel Chapel, which is considered the oldest church in the United States that dates back to 1610, and St. Francis Basilica of Assisi, the most impressive church in the city that was constructed between 1869  and 1886.

There’s also The Loretto Chapel. It was completed in 1878 and built by the Sisters of Loretto (Light). What makes it unique is the 7 m (23.5 ft) spiral staircase that connects to a loft.

Legend has it that a mysterious carpenter took six months to build the stairway and then disappeared without a trace. The stairway makes two 360° turns without a central beam or nails for support. The tale of who designed and built it remains a miracle or a mystery.   

The Creative City - Galleries and Museums

Santa Fe is honoured by UNESCO as a ‘Creative City on Design, Crafts and Folk Art.’ The arts reflect the multicultural character of the city, which consist of Native American, Hispanic and Anglo American influences.

There are 250 art galleries with approximately 80 on Canyon Road, located about 1.6 km (1 mi) southeast of the Plaza. It’s considered to be the best place to purchase quality art. Canyon Road is narrow with one-way traffic, spans 1.2 km (.75 mi) and is lined with former homes that have been renovated into galleries. The art ranges from oil/water paintings and bronze sculptures to ceramics, wood, glass and pottery. The genres are also mixed with traditional and avant-garde works.

Between the Plaza and Museum Hill are 14 major museums. In the Plaza alone are the New Mexico History Museum, New Mexico Museum of Art, Institute of American Indian Arts and the Santa Fe Children’s Museum. The Georgia O’Keeffe Museum is very popular and showcases the artist’s southwestern desert art.  Known as the ‘Mother of American Modernism’, O’Keeffe painted and captured the colourful rock landscapes of the desert.

Across the city on Museum Hill are four more including the Museum of Spanish Colonial Art, Museum of Indian Arts and Culture, Museum of International Folk Art and the Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian.   

Dining and Cuisine

Food always seems to taste better in Santa Fe. The Santa Fe Restaurant Directory lists 260 places to dine and drink. New Mexico also has an abundance of specialty spices, herbs and peppers. The popular question to foodies is ‘red or green peppers?’  The answer is ‘Christmas,’ meaning both. As a result, traditional Mexican dishes like burritos and quesadillas have a unique flavour.    

Most menus in restaurants feature Tex-Mex, a tasty combination of Mexican and Texas cuisine. Popular examples are nachos and tacos. Other culinary dishes include fried bread, posole, Frito Pie, tamales, chimichangas and breakfast burritos, which can all tastefully be washed down with a craft beer or cool Corona. Only in New Mexico can you eat hamburgers topped with chilli peppers. Be sure to bring your appetite.

The Roundhouse

The term roundhouse is usually associated with trains but in New Mexico, it refers to the State Legislature. Construction costs were $5 million and the building was completed in 1966. It has four floors with a 70-seat legislature and 42-seat senate.

The ground floor features a rotunda with a skylight that resembles an Indian basket and the top two floors house offices and committee rooms. The State Legislature meets 30 days one year and 60 days the following year. What’s surprising is that representatives are not paid and only receive a per diem when in session.       

RV Parks, Festivals and Other Attractions

Santa Fe is not short on places to explore. The Opera House, San Miguel Mission, Railyard/Guadalupe District, The Oldest House in the United States and more than 40 festivals are all popular attractions.

When visiting, there’s a choice of 20 RV parks and campgrounds with the Santa Fe KOA Journey, Santa Fe Skies RV Park and Rancheros de Santa Fe being good choices.

With outdoor activities like biking, hiking, golfing, river rafting and fishing the area’s number of rivers, streams and lakes, a trip to the Land of Enchantment’s capital will be a well-rounded getaway that offers something for everyone.