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Story & photos by Dennis Begin
The history of California was greatly influenced by the Gold Rush of 1849, but silver has also made major contributions to the state, particularly in the San Bernardino County. Three mines in the county all produced silver, but Calico was the most productive. The ghost town is located near Yermo, 5 km (3 mi) north off I-15 [Exit 191] on Ghost Town Road. See www.calicotown.com
The story goes that in 1881, a lost horse followed by three miners, who discovered silver by exploring the rainbow coloured Calico Mountains northeast of Barstow. Although the men were primarily looking for copper or gold, the silver discovery was too rich to ignore. The Silver King Mine would be the first and most productive of approximately twenty-five mines dug into the barren mountains. Some of the later mines included Waterloo, Bismarck, Garfield and Burning Moscow, with 50 km (30 mi) of mining shafts built throughout the mountains. Between silver and borate minerals, the mines produced twenty million dollars over a twelve-year period.
With the discovery of silver, the mining town of Calico quickly emerged from a population of a few hundred people to over three thousand residents by the early 1890’s. Calico was a typical one street mining town with three hotels, five general stores, a few restaurants, a bathhouse, blacksmith shop, banks, a Chinese laundry, Wells Fargo Office, and twenty-two saloons, which equaled the number of brothels. When the price of silver began to drop in 1896, the town went into decline and eventually became a decrepit ghost town. When visiting Calico today, there are only five original buildings remaining, such as Hank’s Saloon, while other buildings have been rebuilt to look old.
Walter Knott grew up in Calico and is known for the development of Knott’s Berry Farm in Buena Park, California, which features a western ghost town. In 1951, he purchased the derelict property for $13,500, and aided by Paul von Klieben, an artist/architect, re-constructed the buildings relying on old photos. Calico was turned into a western tourist attraction with a mining background. There are numerous buildings providing modern services from Calico House Restaurant to ten specialty shops, such as R&D Fossils and Minerals and Calico Pottery.
The one street town is located on a hillside. Because of its Wild West history, it seems fitting that the saloons and restaurants are found near the entrance of the town, while the church and school are at the opposite end. Some of the major buildings are Lane’s General Store, Lil’s Saloon (now the museum), and the Glass Bottle House. Other significant buildings include the Sheriff’s Office, the Calico-Odessa Railroad and the Mystery Shack, where water defies gravity and runs uphill. Near the center of town is the Maggie Mine, where tourists can walk 150 m (500 ft) back into the mine. Take the tour and learn the meaning of words such as ‘power monkey’, ‘muckers’ and ‘stringers’, while seeing how miners actually lived inside the mine. A three to four hour underground tour is available in the original Silver King Mine. Expect to get dirty.
It’s reputation as a ghost town is well deserved as there are numerous reports of actual ghosts being sighted. Lucy Bell King Lane, a longtime resident who ran Lucy Lane’s General Store has often been seen in her store. Margaret Olivier, the last schoolteacher, has been seen teaching in her classroom. Tourists who have talked with Margaret thought she was part of the staff dressed in period costumes, only to find out she has been dead since 1932. There is even the ghost story of Dorsey, the shepherd dog that carried the US Mail between various mines. Singer Kenny Rogers recorded an album/song in 1972 about Dorsey entitled “The Ballad of Calico”.
Calico is living history, providing an insight into California’s mining past. Now owned by San Bernardino County, it is operated by the Regional Park System and requires a small entrance fee. There is something for everyone, featuring a gunfight at high noon, a civil war re-enactment, ghost tours, a train ride on the Calico-Odessa Railroad and annual festivals, such as ‘Blue Grass in the Spring’ and ‘Calico Days’.
The Calico RV Park/Campground is located only a short walk from Calico and has most RV services. Another choice for RV’ers is the Barstow/Calico KOA, Exit 191 off I-15 and left on the Outer Highway. This KOA has received the President’s Award for exceptional quality standards and customer service and has a four out of five rating.
Revel in the past at Calico, and beware of whom you may (or may not) meet!