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James Stoness
Big Bend National Park - TX
Cliffs in Mexico
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James Stoness
Big Bend National Park - TX
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James Stoness
Big Bend National Park - TX
Cottonwood Campground
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James Stoness
Big Bend National Park - TX
View across Big Bend Plateau
Story & photos by James Stoness
The Rio Bravo del Norte runs south from New Mexico and after El Paso, it forms the border between the USA and Mexico. In southwest Texas, a big curve in the river carves an arc about a mountainous, dry, rugged and seemingly desolate landscape. Welcome to the home of Big Bend National Park.
Despite the desolate appearance of the land, it is a terrific place to visit. Wherever you go, there are mountains nearby. Shattered canyons beg for exploration, and trails abound to take you higher into the mountains to some hidden dry waterfall, or to the discovery of an old homestead, or mine. In the spring, if moisture is present, purple lupines bound across the slopes in profusion and the roadsides are rich with colour.
We know that climate change is always with us, and the world never remains with the same climate for very long. When you visit, keep in mind that nine thousand years ago there was a cooler and moister climate, and forests grew across the hills and mountains, and lush grass covered the flatter ground.
Indians have lived here for the last several thousand years and although their method of surviving changed as the climate changed, it was only after the 1500’s that really big changes occurred. The Spanish sent out exploration parties, and claimed the land which eventually became Mexican land. Then, in 1849, the USA seized the land for themselves. Settlers moved in creating homes near springs and grew sufficient crops to feed their families. Prospectors opened a few mines. In the 1800’s the land looked much more liveable than it does today. The change began when ranchers moved cattle and sheep into the area. When they arrived they found grasses that grew high enough to touch the stirrups. They found streams and springs. The combination of grass and water made it good for ranching.
It was not to last! Overcrowding of livestock led to overgrazing. This exposed the soil to the rains which quickly eroded huge channels and gorges in what is a hilly country. The feet of sheep and cattle dug up the exposed soil, leading to disaster.
Fortunately dedicated people worked to salvage what remained of the land and much of it is now a park, a goal achieved in 1944. To help you enjoy the park there are three major campgrounds and several backcountry sites. The Rio Grande Village on the east end of the park has some RV hookups and rustic camping. There is a visitor centre as well as fuel.
Chisos Basin campground allows trailers less than 20ft. A very crooked road takes you up 600m (2000ft) and then you manoeuver down and into a tight area. Temperatures are cooler here than at the lower campgrounds and several trails give great views into the lower country. At this elevation you’ll find a remnant of the green forests that used to cover the park.
In the southwest is Cottonwood Campground with 24 sites nicely spaced. It’s a no-generator area so you can enjoy the solitude and be near the river. We enjoyed this camp the most. One evening the buzzards decided to fly up into one of the big cottonwoods jabbering and cracking branches. There was a lonely wild turkey making its home in the campground and it decided to join the other big birds in the tree. When those buzzards saw it coming they were not having any of that nonsense, and with a big roar of wings they were gone. Something not so funny are the Javelinas, like small pigs of the desert. They roam through the campsites on occasion looking for food. They will quickly demolish a tent that has been left with food in it. Store food safely in the car trunk, or some other secure location. They can be dangerous!
It’s accessed by the Ross Maxwell Scenic Drive which climbs over a quite steep mountain. Cottonwood CG is near an area that years ago saw a lot of activity. Farmers grew cotton on the river flats and there was a cotton gin. Nearby Castolon has a visitor centre with old pictures that show the area in its productive era.
A scenic drive along the river leads to a short hike into the Santa Elena Canyon where a scramble up and over the rocks takes you to where you can see the sheer high walls of the canyon. Sometimes, a rubber boat containing several people will come drifting down past you.
You also can gain access in the Castolon area to the River Road, an 80km (51mi) dirt drive that parallels the river and comes out near Rio Grande Village. It’s rough, and might be washed out in places where it crosses washes. Along the way you will see the ruins of Mariscal Mine where in the 1940’s they obtained mercury from cinnabar ore. Working in the dust was dangerous for the workers, and so was the inhaling of mercury during the extraction process. I wouldn’t be comfortable prowling around the piles of dirt near the ruins. Workers here had to use water hauled in over 16km (10mi) of rugged trail. The Candelilla plant was also the basis of a thriving wax industry at one time. There were huge factories that would receive the loads of the plant and process it. The Mexicans brought in huge loads that dwarfed the small donkeys that carried them.
Big Bend National Park is remote and huge, and that’s much of its charm. There are kilometres of trails for hiking, and for 4WD exploring. Avoid holidays and spring break periods if you want to find a place to camp. Plan your visit, prepare yourself for long drives, and some quiet relaxation. It’s definitely a destination to put on your list today!