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Batoche memorial
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Fort Battleford
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Fort Carlton
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Inside Fort Battleford
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Inside Fort Carlton
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Mr. and Mrs. Batoche
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Little jigger
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Barb Rees
Ukrainian church
Story & photos by Barb Rees
131 years ago the prairies at Batoche resounded with the sound of gun battles as the Canadians battled 350 Métis and First Nations people. It was a three day battle leaving the Métis broken but not defeated. Their leader Louis Riel said at his hanging on Nov.16, 1885, “My people will sleep for 100 years, but when they awake, it will be the artists who give them their spirit back.” That has been the case as Métis have regained their culture across Canada.
Nowhere is this more obvious than at the annual “Back to Batoche” festival started 44 years ago the third weekend in July on Métis land. Instead of violence there is peace. Instead of the sound of guns there are the sounds of fiddle music and jigging feet. Come along for four days of wholesome, alcohol free, family fun.
On the way there fill up on some of the history that is an important part of the peoples of this land. We visited Cutknife “Home of the World’s Largest Tomahawk.” It was built as a symbol of the cooperation between First Nations and non-aboriginal peoples. The story involved Chief Poundmaker and non-aboriginal people. Chief Poundmaker was involved in the North West Rebellion with Riel and Dumont. There’s a campground and historical village in Cutknife.
We stopped at Fort Battleford National Historic Site for a tour. Battleford was the first seat of the Territorial government in 1898 and at one time had 50 buildings. It was here, during the North West Rebellion in 1885 that settlers sought refuge. It’s a fascinating tour and in the summer special events are held there. We stayed at Eiling Kramer Campground next to the fort, which has 74 electric sites. It overlooks the magnificent expanse that is the North Saskatchewan River Valley. www.battleford.ca/excursions/eiling_kramer
Trails of 1885 travel guide lists significant historical locations such as Fort Carlton Provincial Park, located 25 km west of Duck Lake. It is an original Hudson’s Bay Company fur-trading post. The Duck Lake Regional Interpretive Centre and Battlefield towers into the sky with levels of history. On the way to Tourond’s Coulee we stopped at a very old wooden Ukrainian church, its steeple piercing the blue skies. The Battle of Tourond’s Coulee Historical Site is 15 km from the junction to Batoche. We took a 2 km walk through the fields learning from the interpretive plaques along the way. On the banks of the coulee, steel cut-outs of men on horseback portray the battle that took place between Gabriel Dumont, his men, the Cree and Dakota, against Major General Middleton on Madame Tourond’s land. She lost everything but her horse and buggy during the battle but went on to live to be 97 years of age.
Batoche National Historic Site is on the land where the battle took place. Visit the restored village, the cemetery where Métis leader Gabriel Dumont rests, and the museum with a movie about the history of the Métis. www.trailsof1885.com
Once you’ve soaked up the history be prepared for four days of music, dancing, shopping for cultural goods, demonstrations, good food and new friends. Camp sites with power are limited so book in advance for July 14-17/16. The campsite hotline is (306) 715-3802.
In the summer of 2015, the fields of Batoche, SK filled up with campers. Our cousins pulled in next to us as we enjoyed massive thunderheads rolling across the horizon while the sun set. A sprightly fox chased game through the grass. What a beautiful setting for a giant celebration. On July 16 it began with the grand march to the beat of fiddles and tapping feet. Prayers were said for all. Much of the music, dancing, competitions and speeches took place under the big top. There were a wide variety of cultural items for sale in the cabins where we sold our jewelry and books. The cabins became gathering places as within 40 seconds of meeting someone we discovered we were related.
Outside there was bannock making, and an archery contest. At the Michif camp guys taught Michif, the language of the Métis. Mary Inkles wove sashes on a small loop loom. Each sash tells a story, each family has their own colour and each colour represents something. In times of old Métis soldiers were identified by their sashes. Mary takes her loom around the schools to teach students about the culture. Lawrence Barkwell, author of 29 historical books teaches beading. His vest was a work of art.
Where ever we went at Batoche the air vibrated with insistent fiddling and guitar music. Somebody would hear a beat and the next thing you know they would be jigging. A two-year-old girl in her Métis costume stole the crowds’ hearts with her jigging while her Dad played the fiddle. When we left, our hearts were brimming over with music and memories. Everyone is welcome to enjoy the festival and the music that brings people of all creeds together.
Barb Rees is a Métis speaker and author of five RV Canada books from the working holidays her and husband Dave have made from coast to coast to coast of Canada. She presents at the RV Lifestyle Seminars in Kelowna annually. Her books can be found at: www.write2dream.com