Dennis Begin
Millennium Gate, the entrance to Chinatown.
Words by Dennis Begin
Vancouver is a convenient Canadian city for RVers. It’s located a little more than an hour to the Canada/U.S. border when planning trips south, it serves as the gateway to the many islands along the coast to the west, and an ideal place to visit before heading into one of the mountain communities to the north.
Perhaps there may be a little more traffic than many will want to deal with in a large rig but if plans include staying for a few days, it’s easy to find a secure, clean RV park and then explore the city in a toad, tow vehicle or by using the city’s efficient transit system. The ideal place to stay is Cariboo RV Park and Campground (www.bcrvpark.com) that is located right along the commuter SkyTrain line.
Vancouver is also a multicultural city with many ethnic districts including Chinatown, which is just as exciting as the city itself with the many sights, sounds, and flavours. From its humble beginnings to the buzz it creates today, this section of the city offers great, fulfilling day trips not to miss during a visit here.
Historical Background
With the completion of the Canadian Pacific Railroad (CPR) in 1885, Chinese Coolies exchanged their picks and shovels for jobs in lumber mills, canneries and laundries. Chinatowns emerged in Victoria and Vancouver where ethnic Chinese felt a sense of community.
Kathy Wang
The Chinatown Memorial Monument.
In Vancouver during this era, Chinatown evolved over a six-block area on both sides of Main, Pender and Keefer streets. Contributing to its growth were a variety of back alleyways including Shanghai, Canton and Market. These narrow routes served numerous functions at the time such as providing more affordable housing, an opium factory and a red light district. The Shanghai Alley now hosts the West Han Dynasty Bell, a gift from the twin Chinese city of Guangzhou.
The boundaries of modern Chinatown now range from East Pender St. in the North, East Georgia St. in the South, Taylor St. in the West and Gore Ave. in the East. The lamp posts are painted red to outline the district’s boundaries. West of Main St. are restaurants and a number of stores while to the east are street markets selling fruit, vegetables, fish and poultry.
Despite the anti-Asian Riots of 1907, the numerous Head Taxes, and the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1923, Chinatown has survived. British Columbia has a population of 5.1 million with 27 percent being of Chinese origin. As for Chinatown, it has an approximate population of 1,400.
Main Attractions in Chinatown
- Millennium Gate
Start a walking tour of Chinatown at the Millennium Gate. This traditional entrance was built to celebrate the turn of the millennium in 2000 and incorporates Cantonese Chinese and Western symbols in a ‘Journey through Time.’ The gate was designed by local architect Joe Y. Wai and is typical of architecture in Southern China. It’s located at 26 West Pender St.
Kathy Wang
Jade Dynasty Restaurant where you can enjoy authentic Chinese cuisine.
- Dr. Sun Yat-Sen Classical Chinese Garden
This is the major attraction in Chinatown and dedicated to the revered Doctor Sun Yat-Sen (1866-1925). Yat-Sen provided the philosophy and leadership to overthrow the Qing (Manchu) Dynasty during the Xinhai Revolution in 1911 and is referred to as the ‘Father of the Nation’.
There are two sections of the Sun Yat-Sen Centre, the public park of the same name and The Classical Chinese Garden - both are a zen retreat from busy Vancouver. The centre was completed for Expo 86 and is modelled after the classical gardens of the Ming Dynasty. While there is no charge for admission, the garden has an entrance fee.
The objective of the garden is to provide a different perspective on culture, architecture and horticulture. In 2011, National Geographic Book named the Sun Yat-Sen Centre ‘The Best City Garden in the World’. The same year, Chinatown was made a ‘National Historic Site’ with its diversity and unique history. It’s located at 578 Carrall St.
- Chinese Cultural Centre (CCC) Museum and Archives
The CCC is dedicated to preserving and promoting the history of Chinese Canadians in the Archives, as well as traditional and contemporary Chinese arts. It’s located at 555 Columbia St.
Kathy Wang
Just one of the street signs in Chinatown.
- Zhong
This monument is shaped in the Chinese character ‘Zhong,’ paying tribute to the Chinese Coolies who worked on the CPR and the Chinese who fought in World War II for Canada, despite not having the right to vote. The monument is located at the corner of Keefer and Columbia St.
Other Highlights
Chinatown has numerous other interesting attractions including Historical Chinatown Tours, the Vancouver Police Museum and the Sam Kee Building, recognized by the Guinness World Record as the ‘narrowest commercial building in the world.’ This small Jack Chow Insurance building varies between 1.4 m (4.5 ft) at its bottom to 2 m (6.2 ft) at the top. It’s located at 8 West Pender St.
Chinatown Food and Shopping
Chinatown is known for its variety of diverse restaurants, attracting both locals and tourists. The majority of award-winning restaurants can be found on Pender, Keefer and Main Streets where restaurants are ubiquitous. There are a myriad of good places to dine whether it’s Japanese, Vietnamese, Thai or Taiwanese.
To label one restaurant better than another is subjective. Various restaurants may specialize in Dim Sum lunches or traditional dishes, including stir-fried sticky rice and soft noodle chow mein. Be sure to research the reviews of the restaurants. The Jade Dynasty Restaurant serves authentic Chinese food while the Floata Seafood Restaurant is famous for its seafood. It even hosted Prime Minister Justin Trudeau and his entourage. If you’re into tea, try the specialty stores of China Green Tea Co. or Treasure Green Tea Company.
Denis Begin
The Sam Kee Building which, according to the Guinness Book of World Records, is the narrowest commercial building in the world.
Apothecary
An apothecary or ‘herbalist’ prepares and provides Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM) that consists of acupuncture, tai chi, meditation and herbal products. Natural and organic health food products are used to cure strokes, heart disease, depression, respiratory diseases and arthritis. Typical apothecary shops include Hang Fung Herbal Products and Ga Cheong Herbal Medicine on Gore Avenue.
Shopping
Import shops feature high-end antiques, souvenirs, toys, electronic gadgets, fashion boutiques and home furnishings. On East Pender St., browse through the Bamboo Village, Décor of China and The Ochi. Or, visit the International Village Mall on West Pender St. or the Chinatown Plaza on Keefer St.
Decline and the Future
Chinatown looks old and for decades has been in decline for a multitude of economic reasons. Urban decay has contributed to the changing demographics and gentrification. There has been an exodus of people from Chinatown. Richmond has become the new Chinatown (Golden Village) with its many restaurants, Aberdeen Centre and Richmond Night Market.
Organizations including the Chinatown Merchants Association have taken steps to increase business investment and tourism. When walking around Chinatown there’s a spirit of community, novelty and uniqueness. With the construction of the new St. Paul’s Hospital and the condo development in Northeast False Creek, its future looks brighter.
The slogan of “See, Experience, Eat, Shop and History” is a perfect description of Chinatown.
Ed Note: *Special thanks to Kathy Wang for her contributions to this article.