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Newfoundland & Labrador Tourism
Newfoundland’s Kittiwake Coast
Long Point Lighthouse in Twillingate
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James Stoness
Newfoundland’s Kittiwake Coast
Busy Twillingate
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James Stoness
Newfoundland’s Kittiwake Coast
Twillingate mural
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Newfoundland & Labrador Tourism
Newfoundland’s Kittiwake Coast
Punts on Fogo Island
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Newfoundland & Labrador Tourism
Newfoundland’s Kittiwake Coast
Sunset in Crow Head, Twillingate
By James Stoness
When you discover Newfoundland’s Kittiwake Coast, you discover Shangri La. It’s a beautiful land filled with trees, hills and water. A land that retains customs and vocabulary of ages past, yet lacks very little in the way of modernization.
The variety of scenery and topography found here is unmatched anywhere else in Newfoundland. Its deeply indented coast is home to a myriad of harbours and fishing villages, whose ‘old world’ charm will coax you to stay a little longer. Legend has it that Brimestone Head on Fogo Island is one of the four corners of the world, at least according to the Flat Earth Society.
Going north on NL-340 you soon reach the sea and Lewisporte, an area visited by the English sailors in the 17th century. From here on, your companion is the ocean. It’s a great place to climb aboard a boat and take a tour of the inlets and quiet channels between the islands. You could even squeeze into a kayak and scoot across the tranquil waters of the bay. Kayaking is a popular way of exploring the area; some even venture out to intercept a passing iceberg.
On your journey you’ll wind along the coast, and over hills cloaked in maple and birch forests. The scenery is spectacular, and the water is everywhere. The sea, and its fish, brought the original visitors to these shores. Wherever there is a sheltered harbour, you’ll see little communities with small wooden homes and fishing boats bobbing on the waves.
At Boyd’s Cove you’ll discover the history of the extinct Beothuk, the first people to live in Newfoundland. The Beothuk Interpretation Centre holds artefacts and the story of the people who did not survive the arrival of the Europeans. The residents of the area are exceptionally friendly, and don’t mind taking time from what they are doing to visit and answer your questions. Some of their words are unknown to outsiders. A tickle? You need the ‘Dictionary of Newfoundland English’ to help you understand them. For instance, if invited to have a meal of ‘blind mush, and burgoo’, do you readily agree to stay, or do you mention your previous engagement? Are you subject to curwibbles?
Continuing on, you’ll want to stop at Twillingate to see the historic St. Peter’s Anglican Church. This grand edifice with its great white steeple towering over the town is beautiful. At its side is a small cemetery. Go inside to see the beautiful interior. Next door in the old Anglican Rectory, is the Twillingate Museum. Twillingate is the kind of town you’d expect to find Agatha Christie characters, or where you stop at a B&B for the night, and end up staying a week.
If you drive to the nearby Long Point Lighthouse, be aware that the road is very steep. The 1876 lighthouse is perched 90 metres above the sea, and the view from the top is awe-inspiring! The massive cliff is partially undercut, giving you the feeling that you are hanging a few hundred feet over the water. Below, large waves shatter against the rocks, leaving spray and white water in their aftermath.
Looking east today, the ocean is a placid painting of blue with white flecks, looking absolutely harmless and serene. But it’s not. This is ‘Iceberg Alley’, and magnificent, icy giants routinely drift past in spring and early summer.
Boat tours offer the opportunity to view icebergs up close, but they can be dangerous. Sides may calve from the main berg with a thunderous roar and violent water. Sometimes an iceberg will roll over completely, with little, or no advance warning. There are also boat tours to see the giant, humpbacked whales which frequent these waters.
There are other discovery roads on the Kittiwake Coast. The ‘Road to the Beaches’ - Rte 310, and ‘Road to the Shore’ - Rte 320 and 330, will take you to many more exciting places. Budding geologists, for instance, might be excited to stand upon the Dover Fault, where the continents collided about 400,000 years ago.
Did you know that Newfoundland does not have any snakes, porcupines, or skunks? Or there’s not many tornadoes or hurricanes? What we did find was, it has beautiful old buildings and a lot of very friendly people. It’s a nice place to visit, and return again.
For your information:
- For Twillingate area: www.twillingate.com
- For Kittiwake coastal area: http://www.the-kittiwake-coast.com/
- For the ferry : www.marine-atlantic.ca
- For Newfoundland: www.gov.nf.ca/tourism