Out with the Old…In with the Tech

These two DIY projects breathed new life into a 1999 Palomino camper for added function and modern style.

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Story and Photos by Quinton Neufeldt

After owning my 1999 Palomino Bronco 1500 truck camper for four years, some of the components were starting to show some signs of wear and tear. This pop-up style camper is lightweight, easy to slide off of and on to the bed of my ½-ton pickup, and came with many of the popular standard features of its day.

While functional for a weekend and extended trips, two problems I faced last season was setting up the camper at a destination. There were a few reasons for this. The first was climbing into the camper with the top down and trying to raise it. Although we always managed, it was equally frustrating taking it down due to the challenge of tucking in the tough, stubborn fabric around the edges while cranking the roof down from the inside.

Project #1: Installing Linear Actuators

Many modern pop-up truck campers employ various electric lift systems or linear actuators to automatically raise or lower the roof, push the sides out, extend the awning, and set the lift jacks. Focusing on my issue got me thinking that it was time to install 12V linear actuators to electronically raise and lower the camper, thus solving my problems.

After searching for linear actuators, I found a variety of online retailers offering different options of stroke length and rated load. For my application, the camper needed to be raised 45 cm (18 in) and in the end, I purchased a system utilizing a 51 cm (20 in) stroke length and 102 kg (225 lb) load rating.

Although this would be more length than I needed, the actuators can be conveniently stopped in any position or height. Also, considering that the roof of the camper is designed to be pushed up manually, I estimated that the load rating per actuator would offer more than enough lifting capacity.

So, I placed my online order for four linear actuators, along with two remote control receivers and switches. This would allow me to have two pairs wired together, and operate the front and back independently with their own remote.

Once I received the parts, I devised the wiring plan with a sketch and assembled the wiring harness in the comfort of my garage, allowing me to install it on the camper later. After soldering the connections, I plugged the harness together and connected it to a 12V battery for a test. Everything worked fine and the actuators stopped automatically when the camper would reach the top of the stroke.

Due to the time of year (winter) and the fact that the camper didn’t fit in my garage, I installed the linear actuators in the cold. But regardless of my frozen hands, the actuators stopped precisely when the top was fully extended so I could install the brackets at the maximum height.

The top bracket was installed through the metal edge along the roof using quarter-inch button head bolts and nuts with some silicone to seal the holes. I then placed the location of the actuators in each of the four corners to evenly distribute the load of the roof. This would also allow the lower brackets to be screwed into the framing at the lower corners of the camper for maximum strength.

It would have been best to install the actuators inside the camper, but it just wasn’t feasible for this application. Plus, I planned to leave the manual crank system in place as a failsafe. After testing the remotes a few times, I was pleased that it worked well so we could move on to the next project.

Project #2: A New 12V Compressor Fridge and Charging Solutions

It was also during my last camping trip of the season when my trusty Dometic three cubic foot fridge wasn’t keeping items as cold as it should have. After searching various RV forums on compact 12 RV fridges, I came across some scenarios about these fridges not functioning. Problems can arise from the fridge not being perfectly level or the climate being too hot for it to operate properly. Another post I read explained that after a while, the piping can get too cold and the absorption system becomes less effective. Whatever the cause was, I needed to replace it.

When I go RVing, I usually stay in one place for a night or two before moving on. So, I decided to purchase a fridge with a two-way, 12V compressor, which allows it to run on 120V with shorepower or 12V when I’m boondocking and using another power source. The fridge is also more compact than my previous model (at 2.3 cu ft.), so I built a small storage shelf just below it to fit snug in the dedicated space.

On previous trips, when shorepower wasn’t available, I would run the fridge using just my truck’s 12V system. So far, I haven’t found myself stranded with a depleted battery. But it’s interesting to note that since the new 12V compressor fridge has a power consumption rating of 288 Wh/24 hours, some quick math indicated (by rounding up the consumption to 300 Wh and then dividing by 12) that the fridge could run on the truck battery, consuming 25 Amp–Hrs for one day. I might also add that, aside from the fridge, I only use a water pump throughout the day and a few LED lights at night.

Once I determined my power requirements, I purchased an auxiliary battery and 12V battery isolator kit just to be on the safe side. I wired the RV battery into the vehicle’s charging system with a ‘smart isolator’ that’s designed to switch charging to the auxiliary battery when the starting battery is at full capacity, thus preventing the starting battery from ever becoming depleted by other systems in the camper. I also picked up a portable, 100-amp solar panel kit with a charge controller for recharging the auxiliary battery when I am boondocking.

As with any DIY project, it will need to be tested and evaluated to determine the overall effectiveness, but I am looking forward to trying these modifications this season.ed automatically when the camper would reach the top of the stroke.