Trail Blazing on Cape Breton Island

A Ram 3500, an F-150 and a Defender 110 X take on the challenging terrain of Canada’s East Coast in rugged style.

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Words and Photos by Trish van Delft

Having completed a two-week overland trip through the highlands of Cape Breton, NS, spending multiple days on rough roads and in hard rain, severe winds and at one point, a microburst storm, we gave two BunduTop roof top tents (RTT) a good test. Running in challenging conditions is all part of overlanding, but having optimal protection, comfort and convenience at the end of each day just makes a trip that much more enjoyable. 

Three vehicles were in our group. I was driving a 2022 Defender 110 X, my husband Peter was running a Ram 3500 dually, while Sandy and Barb were in their tried-and-true F150. Each rig was equipped with a BunduTop RTT and we were happy to report that all of the RTT models withstood the elements and provided the utmost function. 

The F-150 and Defender were rigged with the standard BunduTop with the former sporting the added canopy and half-wing BunduAwn. Peter’s Ram 3500 was equipped with a King BunduTop plus a canopy and square-back BunduAwn with side panels. In addition to the RTTs, the Defender and 3500 RAM were equipped with Eccotemp hot water systems, water tanks, SnoMaster fridge/freezers and 12V Travel Buddy ovens, which are great to have for any outdoor excursion as you can simply cook on the run and have a hearty meal ready at the end of the day. 

The BunduTop RTTs 

Roof Top Tents are an added convenience on the road and certainly worth the investment if you do a lot of off-roading. Although there are a variety of designs available to overlanders that range in quality, the BunduTop is appointed with a few features we really liked. For example, the extruded aluminum design with military-grade canvas provided the protection and sturdiness we needed, and the rectangular configuration provided more interior space than other RTTs we have used in the past. 

Some additional features we appreciated were the 12V winch and pulley system that‘s easily wired into a vehicle or trailer’s electrical system. In other words, you have a comfortable living/sleeping space in about 30 seconds at the flip of a switch. Push-button LED lights, two USB ports, 12V outlets, and fans for air circulation were other nice touches. 

However, for us, it’s always the well-thought-out appointments that make the biggest difference in the backcountry. The windows on all BunduTops have mesh screening and while that’s nothing too over the top, they have awnings that are deployed when the tent opens and cover all four windows, which conveniently prevent rain from entering the interior when the windows were open. 

The mattress, too, was a good 10 cm (4 in) thick. While that would have been enough, they can accommodate a pillow top for added comfort. You can even leave bedding and pillows in place when the RTT is collapsed, allowing quicker and hassle-free setups. 

During our trip and having the space with three vehicles, we opted to bring along the optional BunduAwn canopies for the F-150 and Ram. These fit easily over the side entrances and are also made with heavy military-grade canvas. Although they kept us dry on wet days, the aluminized top sides kept us a little cooler on hot days as they deflected the sun’s heat. 

The canopies are self-supporting and can handle winds up to 35km/h (22 mph). For harsher conditions, two drop-down poles and guy lines are included that can withstand winds of up to 50km/h (31 mph). The great thing about this design is the canopy is located on the side of the ladder and attached to the tent, allowing the addition of walls, which are referred to as an added room much like an annex. The BunduAwn also has sidewalls that can be added to the entire sides of the awning, enclosing it completely and are referred to as BunduAwn walls.

Peter and I found the standard BunduTop large enough for two, but the King BunduTop is available if more space is required. Remember, it’s important to consider the outer dimensions of your vehicle for a proper fit. 

Overlanding Through Cape Breton

My husband and I decided to stay a little closer to home this year, so we planned a scenic multi-day off-road run with our friends Sandy and Barb. The 2,599 km (1,615 mi) round trip consisted of leaving from our home in Bear River, NS, to a tour around Cape Breton Island. From meandering along rough coastal roads and dense inland trail systems to exploring rural villages and camping off-the-grid, the diversity, scenery and people we experienced along the way provided an excellent overland excursion in true East Coast style. 

Day 1

Hitting the road early, we met Sandy and Barb in Stewiacke River, NS, thus completing our overland convoy and made our way to Cape George where we stopped to see the Cape George Point Lighthouse. Located in the Northumberland Shore region, the lighthouse stands guard over St. George’s Bay and offers views of P.E.I and Cape Breton Island on clear days. We also visited the Steinhart Distillery in nearby Antigonish, the maker of fine vodka, gin and various liquors, before making a short run to Tracadie, located approximately 20 minutes to Cape Breton Island. 

Although it may have taken us a little longer since we ran a network of backroads, they weren’t too challenging, but the drive was gorgeous. We were fortunate enough to be offered a great camping spot on an old farm owned by some locals we met. After setting up camp, we made dinner and of course, sampled our wares from the distillery before turning in.   

Day 2 and Day 3 

Waking up to a morning of bright sunshine, I prepared a fresh pork roast with vegetables to cook in the travel oven throughout the day, and then we packed up and drove towards Cape Breton. All three of us ambled along in our rigs amongst beautiful landscapes until we hit the scenic, Ceilidh Coastal Trail and stopped at the Glenora Distillery - the creators of single malt whisky - in Mabou for a quick lunch. 

Unfortunately, our nice weather didn’t hold out as heavy rain set in while on route to Cheticamp. We never let some rain bother us, so we pressed on and took several dirt roads that lead us into the heart of no man’s land. ‘Big Bertha’ (aka the Ram 3500 dually) was a little fussy in a few of the muddy cow patties, but it withstood the conditions with its new set of rubber and swung out of the ruts pretty easily. 

After a day of overlanding, we ended up at Margaree Forks and the flowing Margaree River. We stayed at an off-grid campground called Live Life in Tents, which offers just eight sites as well as river tubing and kayaking. By this time, our pork roast had been cooking all day in our trusty oven. While the aroma was excellent, there was also a strong scent of ‘farm fragrance’ from Peter running in the cow patties! Although we only drove approximately 120 km (75 mi), we had a chance to flex some of the vehicles’ off-road muscles. 

The next morning, the foul weather prevailed and we all agreed to stay one more night to avoid travelling to Cape Clear in foggy, wet weather. So, we set up the walls of one of the awnings for a dry space to relax and enjoy a life of ‘overland luxury.’ 

Day 4 

With clear weather, we realized the fridge/freezer needed a new battery charger and even though we still had options to keep the food supply fresh or frozen, we packed up and went into Sydney to find a Noco Genius Battery Charger. Following the quick stop, our journey continued to Englishtown where we took the Torquil MacLean ferry to Wreck Cove, about 120 km (75 mi) from Margaree Forks. 

As we all had a craving to run through some rough terrain again, we went on Highland Road, which took us once again to the middle of nowhere. There was nothing but our three rigs, beautiful landscapes and rugged roads with large potholes and expansive washboard sections. However, it was well worth the slow drive and all the action that we enjoyed. 

At the end of the route was Cheticamp Lake where we set up for the night, had a quick dinner, and sat around a fire watching an oncoming storm. In no time, the wind picked up, the sky darkened and we prepared for a heavy downpour. With luck on our side, the storm had passed just around us and we didn’t experience one drop of rain.

Day 5

After enjoying some strong coffee, we were back in our rigs a little past 7:00 am to complete the run to Cape Clear. The weather was once again rainy and foggy. While we continued on some dirt roads we decided to turn around and drive back to Cheticamp via a network of backroads, which was more like driving on a goat trail with fast water crossings, steep inclines and sharp rocks. Thank goodness we didn’t blow a tire. Not long after, a few locals we spoke to told us this was the first time they have heard of a Ram dually attempting these roads.

But the Defender proved its mettle. I ran it through water, eased up rocky terrain, and meandered down steep, wet hills. It was a beast in disguise. We eventually came to the end of this trail network and back to civilization where we all fuelled up, had some lunch and drove to Meat Cove along the popular Cabot Trail. 

Later that afternoon, it was time to look for a nightly campsite and we found an area along a wooded trail system near Cape North. 

Day 6 

We left Cape North at 8.00 am sharp and took a winding, scenic route along the shoreline under a sun-filled sky, which was stunning. When we arrived at Meat Cove, Barb and I walked to the beach and then met Peter and Sandy for lunch. Hitting the road later in the day, we took a coastal loop to Ingonish where we found a great place to camp between Ingonish Harbour and South Bay Ingonish. 

Peter spent time flying his drone and after a near mishap with a tree, he landed it safely. The drone was saved, drinks were served, a fire was roaring, and we had a beautiful view. What more could we ask for?

Day 7 and 8 

One of the more memorable aspects of any trip is discovering new, unique locations. As we were back on the road at 7:30 am and drove to Baddeck for more fuel, some residents told us about a few hot places to visit and camp. The trail we learned about eventually led us to a gorgeous lake with a great spot to camp. Although we planned to go hiking and experience more of the area, the weather once again wasn’t cooperating so we opted to relax under the awning. 

The rain was relentless through the morning. While we were dry, we decided to pack up and find sunnier skies. That evening, we came across a great campsite on Bras d'Or Lake. 

Day 9 

We began driving east early and passed a rural village called Gabarus, which has a population of a mere 94. We visited the lighthouse of the same name and ventured down some side trails to find an interesting spot to camp. With no luck, we drove about 30 km (19 mi) to Framboise and found an excellent beach. So, we set up an early camp and enjoyed the area. There wasn’t a soul to be seen and the scenery was beautiful.  

Later that night, we awoke to winds of approximately 50km/h (31 mph). We jumped out of our RTTs to ensure the awnings were well secured. With no sand pegs in place (nor did we have them with us), we went to the beach and found some suitable rocks to provide some added security. That being said, both the BunduAwns and the BunduTops withstood the weather.

Day 10 

Overlanding trips are commonly full of surprises, and the next morning we were greeted with bright sunshine, rather than the common rain we had been experiencing.  We went for an early morning walk on the beach and then packed up to finish the last leg of our journey. During the drive to Saint Peter’s, we ran along some side roads and found ourselves on a sketchy trail. Both Peter and Sandy took an alternate route in the Ram and F-150, but Barb and I pressed on in the Defender. We were soon driving along an intense, white-knuckle eroding cliff face. Thankfully, we eventually found an area to safely turn around. We met up with Sandy and Peter and set up an early camp at nearby Battery Provincial Park. 

Concluding the Journey

Leaving Saint Peter’s, we were homeward bound and decided to visit Point Michaud, which has an exceptional 3 km (2 mi) beach that’s backed by marram-covered dunes and large cranberry bogs. Saving the adventure here for another day, we spent the last few days touring a series of connected islands including Isle Madam, Janvrin, Petit-de-Grat and a variety of rural seaside communities on Cape Breton’s south coast. 

Making our way back to central Nova Scotia, bidding farewell to Sandy and Barb, we continued southwest to Bear River with not only memories of a great overland trip, but thoughts of a new adventure elsewhere on Canada’s East Coast for next year. Stay tuned.