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Mathieu Godin
South Dune Beach
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Mathieu Godin
Cap à Ned-Dunn
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Mathieu Godin
Bout du Banc Point
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Mathieu Godin
Chemin de la Butte du Vent
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Mathieu Godin
Anse à la Cabane Lighthouse is the tallest and oldest lighthouse of the archipelago
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Mathieu Godin
Avila -Landry beach (Gull Island in background)
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Mathieu Godin
Sandy Hook beach
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Mathieu Godin
Chemin des Montants
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Mathieu Godin
East Cape, just north of Pointe de l'Est National Wildlife Area
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Mathieu Godin
Pointe Old-Harry northeast end the archipelago
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Mathieu Godin
Cap aux Meules Island
Words by Mathieu Godin
“There were a lot of tracks on the beach, but now – I was the only one out there trying to fight the sea.”
As the passage on the beach was getting narrower, I stopped and stepped out of my Pathfinder to reassess my situation, while at the same time observing the sea waves crashing down on the beach. They were coming in strong with a wild roar. I was considering waiting for the tide to recede when I realized that the tide was rising. My initial assessment had been wrong. I had two choices: I could either wait it out or I could turn around at that very moment.
Choosing the latter, I noticed the waves had washed away some of my previous tire tracks (was the tide rising that fast?). A few spots on the beach were narrow on my way in, but I was hoping I could still make it back. So, I followed what was left of my tire tracks. However, the sand was now softer, and my Pathfinder was working hard. In some areas, the sea had previously eroded on the dune, leaving only a small passage. I was driving in 4WD, slowing down only for a quick assessment of tight spots before proceeding. I couldn’t help but think how bad this could end if I was not careful since I was the only one out there.
There was a small island that I used as a land marker to estimate how much further it was to the beach access point. From I where I was, it seemed far away. However, as I was getting closer to the island, I knew the beach was only going to get wider.
In the end, I made the access point. While I was glad this mishap ended well, I learned my lesson. Checking a more reliable tide table rather than just looking at the tourist guide (that only provided a “low tide” table) would have be a much better and safer choice.
Earlier that day, when I arrived on the beach, the waves weren’t getting any closer to the top of the wet mark. So, I was sure the low tide cycle began. When I first scouted the area, the beach was wider than the one I had previously explored, and I underestimated how much of an impact the tides have.
On that beautiful afternoon, I had hoped to make it to the end of the South Dune to observe seals in their habitat, but my National Geographic-type expedition was a failure. After looking at a tide table, I found out that high tide was expected in another hour and a half, but the tide was not expected to get much higher. Luckily, the Gulf of St. Lawrence didn’t try to swallow my Pathfinder. Since the sand was a little soft and it seemed that the passage was only getting narrower, I decided not to attempt this route as a solo vehicle again. Had I stayed longer, I’m sure a local would have been happy to accompany me with his 4WD.
The Beauty of The Islands
Located between Prince Edward Island and Newfoundland, the Magdalen Islands (also known as the Maggies) are unique. Just envision green valleys topped with colourful little houses that appear to have been strategically positioned and painted for a postcard effect. Add the red sandstone cliffs and long white sandy beaches with dunes that spread out to link six islands together, and you must continually pinch yourself to realize this archipelago is real.
The Magdalen Islands are in a world of their own and it’s hard to believe that they are in the province of Quebec. Further, as the islanders live within the Atlantic Time Zone, it’s important to remember the time is one hour ahead than the rest of the province.
Although Entry Island is the only inhabited island that’s not attached to the others, you can access it by a small ferry from Cap aux Meules Island. It has a capacity of 45 passengers and two vehicles. Since the island is only seven square kilometers (three square miles), it can be easily explored on foot. A great – yet short – hike can be enjoyed at Big Hill. At 174 m (571 ft) it’s the highest point of the archipelago and offers a scenic, 360-degree panoramic view.
The main provincial road is Route 199. Only 100 km (60 mi), it takes less than two hours to drive from one side to the other if you don’t stop or explore along the way. During my visit to Entry, I stopped several times as – like the rest of the islands - there was much to explore.
To make the most of your trip to the Magdalen Islands visit and explore one island at a time. A free tourist guide is available and provides information about the most scenic routes. It’s recommended. These islands are expansive and it’s easy to get lost.
Named “Menagoesenog” (islands brushed by the waves) by the Micmac Indians, The Magdalen Islands’ climate is milder than the mainland each season, yet is prone to get a little windy, which only gets stronger in the winter. Although it’s great for wind sports (especially in the fall), don’t under estimate its strength. It almost became standard practice to park my vehicle facing the wind and some islanders even install door stoppers (in the form of a belt) on their car doors to prevent them from accidentally blowing wide open. I was also told that it’s a requirement for all home exterior doors. While it was windy during my visit, the weather was pleasant most days to go exploring and enjoy the region.
As an overlanding destination, the Magdalen Islands have something special to offer. There are miles of white sand beaches that are just waiting to be explored. Keep in mind that driving on some of the beaches is only permitted between specific dates and I was lucky to be there when I was. The islands are not an off-roading destination, but if you enjoy overlanding, you won’t be disappointed – taking the five-hour ferry from PEI to this island region is well worth it.
One of the highlights during my trip was my micro-expedition to the tip of the Sandy Hook Dune at the Bout du Banc Point. While it might be considered just a Sunday family drive for locals, it sure felt like a genuine expedition to me. I have enjoyed plenty of rides on beaches with an ATV when I was younger, but this was my first time doing it in a much larger and heavier 4WD vehicle. Lowering the pressure from the recommended 35 psi down to 20 on my tires, I switched into 4WD and off I went.
While the beach was narrow, it was an easy drive as the sand was perfect for driving. It was a little soft in some areas, but nowhere did it feel like I could get bogged down. Speaking to a local, he advised me about a hazard located just a few feet from the beach access point where a few people totaled their vehicles in what looked like a small salt-water puddle about 3 m (10 ft) wide. It was, in fact, approximately six feet deep. At low tide, I kept to the left and crossed through a small stream, but at high tide the right side was my only option.
While rewarding, beach driving here has its challenges. It’s necessary to continually keep an eye out for hazards. They can be in the form of deeper-than-expected water crossings, rocks, debris or pieces of wood partially buried in the sand. Of course, you also have to look out for other people, whether they are on foot or driving an ATV or 4WD.
My local contact provided me with his cell phone number in case I needed extraction during my trip. “Here, we extract people with farm tractors,” he told me. I told him that another 4WD would probably be sufficient since I have front and back recovery points, as well as a proper snatch strap. I also carry a set of MaxTrax on my roof rack. Plus, the fact that I had someone to contact in case of an emergency gave me much more confidence to do this solo.
Although exploring the long sand beaches was a lot of fun, there were also forests to check out. I found a network of shared trails (for 4WDs and ATVs) inland on Cap aux Meules and Havre Aubert islands. While enjoyable, some parts required a high clearance 4WD.
Exploring the Chemin de la Butte du Vent on the Cap aux Meules Island is also a must. Great views of the area can be seen from the two communication towers, then proceed northwest to exit on Chemin des Caps. On Havre Aubert Island, I visited the Chemin des Arpenteurs where my Pathfinder got covered in some red mud.
While I didn’t get the chance to observe any seals at the South Dune, I came across three of them during a short hike along the North Dune beach where they were about 30 m (100 ft) from shore. There I was on a white sand beach that stretches on 16.5 km (10.3 mi). I was captivated by the view of the ocean. It felt like I was standing on the edge of the world.
I chose the Parc de Gros-Cap campground Cap aux Meules Island as my basecamp during this trip, which had extended its opening dates. I also heard that there were a record number of visitors on the islands this year. If you’re planning to go overlanding here, it’s best to stay at a local campground to minimize the impact on the environment while also supporting the local economy.
The personnel at Parc de Gros-Cap was very accommodating. Not only did they provide top-notch service, but they recommended the must-see spots in the area. In addition to its campsites, Parc de Gros-Cap has five ready-to-camp units called “Les Salines.” I was happy to stay warm and cozy in one of them when the weather was not on my side. Although sleeping in the back of my Pathfinder is usually comfortable, it’s not the most convenient setup. It was nice to enjoy a few nights in a Saline, so I didn’t have to fight the wind, the rain or both. The campground is also in a great location where many services and businesses are located.
During my time on those islands, the Islanders always made me feel welcome and I’m sure the Madelinots would be just as warm with other visitors. The Magdalen Islands are zero stress islands. It’s said the Madelinots don’t track time because they have the time and I wish I could say the same, but in reality, this adventure had to come to an end – for now.
Staying Power: Four Ways to Make your Trip Easy and Convenient
- Need information about the area? Get your free tourist guide by calling (877) 624-4437 or visit www.tourismeilesdelamadeleine.com/en/
- For details on the CTMA ferry call (888) 986-3278 or visit www.traversierctma.ca/en/
- For all the details about beach access with a vehicle call (418) 986-3100 or visit https://muniles.ca/nous-joindre/
- It’s vital to know the tide tables. All the details can be found at www.tides.gc.ca/eng
When to go
If you want to drive on some of the beaches, you will have to visit during low season. The downside is that some businesses will be closed so be sure to make some calls before your visit.
Where to stay
Parc de Gros-Cap campground
Clean and spacious with great sites, Parc de Gros-Cap offers several services with many choices of camping styles including “ready-to-camp” units or Salines. For all the details call (800) 986-4505 or visit www.parcdegroscap.ca
Where to Dine
Café de la Grave
From soup, salads and seafood to homemade desserts, their pot-en-pot (seafood pâté) and the cheesecake is a must to try.
(418) 937-5765
Café de chez nous
With an assortment of menu items from gourmet meals to burgers and pizza, you’ll also want to try its western sandwich.
(418) 986-3939
DeckerBoy
Popular for Pizza, DeckerBoy is also known for its famed “Banax” doughnuts.
(418) 986-4525