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David Y. Wei and Suzanne L. Clouthier
Newton Cove Resort
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David Y. Wei and Suzanne L. Clouthier
Newton Cove Resort
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David Y. Wei and Suzanne L. Clouthier
Newton Cove Resort
Story & photos by David Y. Wei & Suzanne L. Clouthier
Had I turned away, I would have missed it. The rod tip had barely jiggled. I grabbed the rod out of the holder just as a solid tug popped the mainline free of the downrigger clip. The heavy-action mooching rod sprang up for a split second before bending back into a tight arc as the line went taut again. My Amundson TMX5 mooching reel’s powerful drag released line smoothly, working in unison with the flex of the matching Amundson rod to snub a big chinook’s first long, frantic run. Holy frijoles – what an introduction to the fabulous fishing around Esperanza Inlet.
Salmon fishing had been really good inshore before our visit, but our guide from Newton Cove Resort, James Fisher, had had enough of dodging patches of seaweed concentrated by recent prevailing winds. After one pass among the rocky islets at the entrance to Esperanza Inlet, we headed well offshore instead to the aptly named “Salmon Highway.” Schools of mature salmon tend to migrate along the Highway’s 100-metre bottom contour, which runs the length of our coast.
Whether fishing inshore or offshore, Nootka Marine Adventures’ Newton Cove Resort is perfectly situated for guests to access either option. The floating resort, only two years old, is permanently moored in what owner Paul Pfleger calls a “gem-quality wilderness location” just minutes from fish-holding spots in the sheltered waters of Esperanza Inlet; the eroded shoreline around Ferrer Point, on the south side of the inlet; shallows and islets around Catala Island (such as Black Rock); and reefs like Nuchalitz, Blind, or Middle. This magnificent landscape falls within the traditional territory of the Ehattesaht First Nation, one of 14 Nuu-Chah-Nulth nations on Vancouver Island’s western coast.
Newton Cove is well-protected inside a branch of Esperanza called Espinosa Inlet, named after Lieutenant Josef de Espinosa of the historic Malaspina Expedition. From 1789 to 1794, Alessandro Malaspina commanded the Spanish corvettes Descubierta and Atrevida during a voyage of exploration … and political gamesmanship with Great Britain. Malaspina named Esperanza Inlet as well, by translating into Spanish a name Britain’s Captain James Cook had bestowed in 1778: “Hope Bay.” Modern-day anglers can appreciate hope, whatever the language.
During July and August, when mature salmon are returning to the Gold and Burman rivers or to the Conuma River Hatchery in Nootka Sound, anglers can stay inshore for all their salmon fishing. James Fisher credits much of the exceptional inside fishery to the hard work of the Nootka Sound Watershed Society and the Conuma hatchery. Revenue from four annual derbies put on by Nootka Marine Adventures helps to fund the release of some 1.2 million chinook each year.
But Suzanne and I love getting offshore. There are always fresh runs of mature salmon making their way back to rivers on Vancouver Island and in mainland B.C., Washington, and Oregon. Once guides get dialled into what the fish want to hit, the action can be furious.
Some 20 kilometres west of Vancouver Island, marine conditions had settled down nicely after the previous days’ storms had blown through. A gentle swell greeted us as we dropped our flasher-and-hootchie combos onto GPS coordinates that marked an undersea formation resembling a “dragon’s mouth” on the chart-plotter. As we looked around, it seemed that every few minutes, at least one person from the resort’s small armada of guide boats had a fish on.
Aboard our own boat, Suzanne, Adele Larkin (general manager of Nootka Marine Adventures), and I were having a ball. Salmon and bottomfish – halibut, lingcod, and Pacific yelloweye rockfish – hit our deep-trolled lures on every pass. James had customized a few hootchies with colourful Mylar inserts to produce killer lures with monikers like “Pink Tuscadero.” Strangely, almost all the salmon strikes began with the same light taps. Once off the downrigger clip, though, we sure knew we had chinook on as they slammed out hard, reel-squealing runs that left us all with our hearts in our throats, forearm muscles aching, and fingers cramped from winding. Even when we gained control these salmon fought doggedly, with worrisome head-down shakes, all the way to the net. And with limits of silvery salmon early in each of our two days of fully guided fishing, we had plenty of time to add a few tasty bottomfish before heading in. All our catch was custom-cut, vacuum-packaged, and flash-frozen in the resort’s government-certified fish-processing facilities.
The two main guest sections of the lodge – with 22 double-occupancy staterooms in two-storey structures, an expansive dining room (which doubles as a large meeting space for corporate retreats), and outside gazebos with gas-fired warming pits – are built atop massive blocks of five-foot-thick Styrofoam. No expense was spared. The resort assures that its spring water is potable with micro-filtration combined with UV light treatment; a desalination plant provides backup for drought conditions. An intricate, government-approved sewage-treatment system meets the inspectors’ “trout survival test.” Power comes from diesel generators, but these are only run during the day when guests are out fishing, and are shut down when they return. Batteries charged by solar panels are used to supply quiet power in the evenings. Fully guided guests fish from Nootka Marine Adventures’ fleet of 33 top-line sport fishing boats, including Grady-White, Pro-line, and Trophy cruisers. And even in this remote location, the resort’s grid of satellite receivers provides excellent Wi-Fi, and reception for two huge wide-screen televisions in the dining room.
Guests don’t go hungry. A continental breakfast starts at 4:45 am, with hot, cooked-to-order meals at 5:00 am. Lunches can be packed with a selection of gourmet sandwiches and fresh baking, fruit, sweet or savoury goodies from a well-stocked snack bar, and cold drinks from a big cooler. After fishing, there are complimentary self-serve alcoholic beverages (including beer, cider, wine, and hard liquor) to celebrate the day’s adventures, and platters of delectable appetizers. A four-course gourmet supper follows with soup, salad, mains like barbecued ribs or roast prime rib, and scrumptious desserts. If you somehow still have a corner to fill, the snack and liquor bars are available 24 hours a day.
Newton Cove Resort is a first-class operation that is perfect for fly-in corporate groups. As Paul Pfleger put it, “It’s hard to overbuild a gem-quality location; over time, the returns will justify any investment. The worst you’ll do is overbuild for the current market, but that will work itself out in time.” Fully guided, drive-in guests like ourselves, or even those with their own boats are also welcome, with all receiving the same high levels of service, amenities, meals, and accommodations.
Getting there (sidebar)
From the B.C. Ferries terminal in Nanaimo, drive-in guests for Newton Cove Resort take Highway 19 North to Campbell River, then Highway 28 West 91 kilometres to Gold River. A well-maintained gravel logging road leads 43 kilometres past Gold River towards Tahsis to Nootka Marine Adventures’ land-based Moutcha Bay Resort. Plan for about four hours’ driving from Nanaimo to Moutcha Bay Resort.
Your guide will provide the 90-minute water transport from Moutcha Bay to Newton Cove. Along the way, you will enjoy some magnificent scenery through three of the magnificent inlets (Tlupana, Tahsis, and Esperanza) that make up Nootka Sound. Be sure to look for rafts of sea otters that have recently colonized Tahsis Inlet.
Phone 1-877-337-5464 or e-mail info@nootkamarinaadventures.com
www.nootkamarineadventures.com/newton-cove-resort
Since ferry traffic during the summer can be very busy, it may be advisable to make a reservation at: www.bcferries.com or call toll-free: 1-888-223-3779.