Sailing and Cruising the San Juans

The “Gourmet Archipelago” offers great food, fun activities and new improvements to major ports

by

By Shannon Borg

With a series of ports, a fascinating history, colourful culture, and myriad of activities, the San Juan Islands are one of the most popular boating destinations in the world.

There are four main ports of call – Friday Harbor and Roche Harbor on San Juan Island, Eastsound on Orcas Island, and Fisherman Bay on Lopez Island - and many smaller islands to explore. Regardless of which one you choose to visit - The San Juan Islands are an exciting area to visit with great food that’s served in a tranquil atmosphere. Like many adventures, some local knowledge and a bit of inside information will help make your trip just that much more enjoyable.

Friday Harbor

There have been some major updates to the docks at Friday Harbor, including a completely rebuilt Downriggers Restaurant (downriggerssanjuan.com), with a beautiful new bar and patio overlooking the port. Everything from wooden sailboats to sleek yachts adorn the docks and you’ll also find gas, showers and laundry facilities, plus a great little seafood shop right on the dock. Serene accommodations in Friday Harbor include bed and breakfast inns, affordable small hotels, and a cubistic waterfront hotel (the Island Inn at 123 West www.123west.com), which overlooks the harbor.

Exploring the island and all of its attractions should definitely be on your “to-do list.” Enjoy a whale watching tour on Friday Harbor in the morning, take in some history at The Whale Museum or the San Juan Islands Museum of Art (IMA), then explore the island further with your choice of a scooter, scoot-coupe or car, which are available to rent. Once you have some wheels, perhaps pick up a picnic lunch at San Juan Island Cheese (www.sjicheese.com) to enhance your day of scenic driving around this beautiful area. Stop at the Tops’l Seafood & Sushi (www.topslseafood.com) for fantastic fresh local seafood. Tops’l is located above the Cask & Schooner Pub (www.caskandschooner.com), where you can get a great lamb burger or fish and chips. Nearby is Vinny’s Ristorante that offers gourmet seafood, steak and Italian specialties (www.vinnysfridayharbor.com).

Roche Harbor

Another main port is Roche Harbor, which is home to the historic Roche Harbor Resort (www.rocheharbor.com), a 19th-century former lime kiln, which supplied powdered limestone for Seattle’s growing cityscape. You may want to visit the San Juan Islands Sculpture Park (www.sjisculpturepark.com) that is one of the largest sculpture parks in the world with its 125-plus outdoor pieces.

To quench your thirst, local spirits can be enjoyed at the San Juan Distillery/Westcott Bay Cider (www.sanjuandistillery.com), where you can taste locally made gin that’s flavoured with natural aromatic seasonings. This village is truly a boater’s retreat with three quaint restaurants, a well-stocked store, kayaking opportunities, whale watching tours, and a fresh seafood shack that sells fresh-caught Dungeness crab and spot prawns in season.

San Juan Island

Lime Kiln Point State Park (www.visitsanjuans.com/members/lime-kiln-point-state-park) a.k.a. Whale Watch Park, on San Juan Island sometimes offers a glimpse of orcas that occasionally come for the salmon in kelp beds. The park also has a lighthouse with seasonal lighthouse tours and interpretive center. If you go kayaking along the West Side of San Juan Island, you may be lucky enough to observe sea lions, seals, porpoises, and maybe even a bald eagle or two.

For more information on seeing whales, kayaking and incredible bicycling opportunities while you’re in the Islands, visit www.visitsanjuans.com/what-to-do 

Orca Island

In the village of Eastsound, several restaurants, cafes, bakeries, as well as shops and galleries featuring the works of local artists’ are just a short walk from the county docks. Before you taste, inhale the fresh scent of the locally grown produce you’ll find at the restaurants, grocery store and the lively Saturday Farmers Market.

If you can`t resist fresh seafood, you`ll have a hard time passing up a visit to the Buck Bay Shellfish Farm. This where you can shuck oysters and sip local brews at The Island Hoppin’ Brewery. You can also sample the local wines at Orcas Island Winery. (http://www.visitsanjuans.com/dining/orcas-island)

If you have been here before, you`ll notice a new look down at the marina at Rosario Resort and Spa (www.rosarioresort.com) with its updated docks and easier access to the services such as the resort’s historic museum, music room and spa, which are free and open to the public. There’s a small boathouse grill dockside or you can enjoy more upscale fare at The Mansion Restaurant, which now has a talented, new chef, Raymond Southern, who gathers the island’s freshest ingredients from local farms for the menu.

Doe Bay Resort & Retreat (www.doebay.com) has three buoys in the bay and when you tender in there`s plenty to do and see. The resort is home to dozens of cabins, yurts and campsites to choose from. There’s a spa that overlooks a little waterfall plus three soaking tubs, a sauna and showers.

The beautiful one-acre organic garden here is pleasant to stroll through and it supplies most of the food for the Doe Bay Café, a seafood restaurant that you just have to try. Rent a kayak, play volleyball or go hiking in Moran State Park, with special access for people staying at the resort. There’s also open-mic and pizza on Thursdays and live bands play most Fridays and Saturdays.

Lopez Island

Lopez Village is an ear-shot to the marinas and the Lopez Islander Resort (www.lopezfun.com/) offers kayak and bike rentals to explore the island. Isabel’s Espresso serves a great Latte or a cup of coffee or try a famous cinnamon bun at Holly B’s Bakery, then wander the town. There’s a bookstore, library, grocery store, the Lopez Island Vineyard & Winery tasting room, a couple of galleries, and a great little specialty grocery store called Blossom, which has moved to a spiffy new location.

Moorage can be found at the resort’s marina in Fisherman Bay. There’s room for roughly 30 boats, up to 50 feet long, with services including a store, fuel and access to the resort’s swimming pool, Jacuzzi, showers and laundromat. Islands Marine Center (www.islandsmarinecenter.com) on Fisherman Bay also has moorage for 100 boats, a small store, fuel and more. You can also moor at Spencer Spit State Park (www.visitsanjuans.com/members/spencer-spit-state-park).

Around the island, depending on the distance you want to ride, you can discover National Monument sites, including Iceberg Point, Agate Beach, and more. There are also 14 county docks in San Juan County including Odlin Park, Mackaye Harbor, and Hunter Bay on Lopez.

More Inside Tips for Boaters

Sucia (SOO-shuh) Island is a great little place for gunkholing while Matia (MAY-shuh), Clarke, Barnes, plus Jones and James Islands are also worth exploring. For lodging, dining, travel and activities information visit www.visitsanjuans.com.

Shannon Borg lives in Friday Harbor where she is the marketing coordinator for the San Juan Islands Visitors Bureau. Find her at www.shannonborg.com.

SunCruiser West Coast is available on newsstands across Western Canada and the Pacific Northwest USA, including Walmart, Chapters and Shopper's Drug Mart. Or buy your print or digital edition for your PC, Mac, iPad or Android tablet by clicking here.

Connect With SunCruiser Magazine on social media: facebook; twitter; instagram