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Lynx Levelers
Lynx Levelers: The Lynx Levelers can be used under single and dual wheels, under tandem axles and under jacks.
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Lynx Stop-n-Chock
Lynx Stop-n-Chock: They interlock with the Lynx Levelers to ensure maximum stability of your RV.
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Husky Wheel Chocks
Husky Wheel Chocks: They come in a six pack and are made of a high impact durable plastic making them light weight yet strong.
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Lippert Scissor Jack
Lippert Scissor Jack: These 24” heavy gauge steel stabilizer jacks are easy to bolt on and come with mounting hardware and manual crank handle.
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Lippert 3500lb Electric Tongue Jack
Lippert 3500lb Electric Tongue Jack: The helical cut gears reduce noise and improve the operating efficiency of the jack. It comes with mounting hardware as well as a manual crank handle.
By Perry Mack
First of all, why bother to level your RV? Isn’t close, close enough? Often times the answer is no. Just eyeing it up could result in lying down at night only to find your head is lower than your feet, uncomfortable for most of us. Then your choices are to roll around all night, or sleep the wrong way in the bed, or get up and try to level your RV in the dark. It could be you won’t realize the RV isn’t level until morning, when you realize the food in your fridge isn’t quite cold - it wanted to be level too.
If those aren’t enough reasons, the tank level sensors can give you the wrong readings in an unlevel RV - give that some thought.
Many RV sites are perfectly level, but others are not. And that’s where having the right tools and a little patience pays off with big dividends.
Levels. It’s best to have two levels – in sailing terms, one for fore and aft (front/back), the other for port and starboard (left/right). Set one on the driver side front/back and one on the passenger side left/right. Then start working to get those bubbles between the centre lines.
Blocks. Measure the width of your tire before getting your hands on a set. Using leveling blocks not only get your trailer level, they can also prevent your tires from sinking into the ground, making it hard to leave. You can make them from pieces of 2x8 to 2x12’s, or purchase them from your RV dealer. Manufactured blocks are lighter than wood, don’t degrade over time and are interlocking, which means they form a sturdy ramp that doesn’t slide around as you maneuver your RV on to them. A set of 12 will provide 3 blocks per tire. If you enjoy boondocking at your favourite lake or hunting spot you may want a second set in case where you want your trailer is especially uneven.
Wheel Chocks. You need wheel chocks to insure your trailer doesn’t move around once you level it. You can simply arrive at a site and begin scrounging for rocks or split logs (which you’ll want for the campfire later), or you can purchase a quality set to keep in your trailer that will be there when you need it.
Stabilizing Jacks. Some folks think these are used to level the RV – they are wrong. Look at the name. The purpose of these jacks is to steady the trailer as you move around inside. Many trailers come with these jacks, however in the event that yours doesn’t, or they are broken, you can purchase aftermarket manual or electric units. Manual will do the job but there’s some labour involved in crouching under the RV to crank them up. Electric means you just push a button. Complete the package with an electric tongue jack so you look forward this last step instead of dreading it.
Jack Pads. If your stabilizer jacks have to be extended to their limit you can damage them. Jacks pads allow you to minimize their extension so they are at their strongest. One final reminder that you shouldn’t use the stabilizer jacks to level your RV, they weren’t designed to handle that much stress and you will likely damage them.
Finally, a couple of quick tips - Start by leveling with your slides in, and side-to-side first. With a few tools to make leveling stress free, you’ll enjoy RVing even more.