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Dennis Begin
Valley of the Gods - Utah
Road through the monoliths
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Dennis Begin
Valley of the Gods - Utah
De Gaulle and His Troops Butte
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Dennis Begin
Valley of the Gods - Utah
Seven Sailors
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Dennis Begin
Valley of the Gods - Utah
Typical gravel road through Valley of the Gods
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Dennis Begin
Valley of the Gods - Utah
Goosenecks State Park
Story & photos by Dennis Begin
Many Canadians often refer to their own province as ‘God’s Country’ because of its natural beauty, but there is only one ‘Valley of the Gods’. This valley is located near the Arizona-Utah border, 53 km (33 mi) north of Monument Valley. On our first visit to this Utah valley, my wife and I repeatedly uttered, “…oh my God…” as we viewed these incredible rock formations, also referred to as mesas, pinnacles or buttes. The Navajo Indians tell of a legend in which their Gods, to guard the valley, turned their warriors into stone.
The Valley of the Gods is relatively flat, bordered by Hwy 261 to the northwest and Hwy 163 to the northeast. It’s not a state park, rather under the jurisdiction of the federal Bureau of Land Management (BLM). The proper name for it is Cedar Mesa Cultural and Recreational Area, with elevations between 1,342 to 1609 metres (4,405 to 5,280 ft) above sea level. During our visit in March, the temperatures reached into the mid to high teens (60’s F), but rain and snow are possible during the winter months.
The only way to view the valley is along a 27 km (17 mi) gravel road that loops around it. Using the east entrance along Hwy 163, located 13 km (8 mi) north of Mexican Hat, the gravel road is smooth enough for cars and trucks, but large motorhomes and RVs are not recommended, especially vehicles over 8.5 metres (28 ft) or 4536 kg (10,000 lb). There are no campsites, washrooms, water, garbage cans, or paved roads, but smaller RV’s are able to boondock close to the road. As a safety precaution, be sure your gas tank is full and your cell phone is fully charged. You should also carry extra water, food, and a spare tire.
The best light for photos of this picturesque valley is found by entering the valley from the east. What you’ll see resembles Monument Valley, but on a smaller scale. The sandstone monoliths were created 300 million years ago by natural erosion, resulting in a myriad of interesting shapes and names, with the most fascinating of them found when the road bends around Castle Butte. Some of the names for them are ‘Lady in a Tub’, ‘Rudolf and Santa Claus Butte’, ‘Seven Sailors Butte’ and ‘De Gaulle and His Troops Butte’.
There are other attractions close to the west exit. Claire and Gary Dorgan operate a B&B in their home, and serve as unofficial caretakers of the 145,000 ha (360,000 ac) valley. The B&B operates on solar power, and even their truck uses cooking oil for fuel. Stop in for a visit and they’ll proudly show you around.
Also near the west entrance, if you have the nerve, is the Moki Dugway Road to Muley Point viewpoint, elevation 1,958 metres (6,425 ft). It’s a steep, 366 m (1,200 ft) climb, with gravel hairpin turns, and no safety railings. If you have a weak stomach, it’s best to head east on Hwy 261 to the Goosenecks.
The Goosenecks State Park is 14 km (9 mi) from Mexican Hat. The San Juan River makes a series of tight, hairpin turns, or goosenecks, carving a canyon 305 metres (1,000 ft) deep. The goosenecks cover an area 3 km (1.5 mi) long, and reveal millions of years of geological history. The park facilities are very basic, with no river access, as a means of protecting this geographically sensitive wonder of nature. There is a viewing area however, so bring your camera.
The Navajo Gods created an incredible valley, full of unspoiled, natural beauty. The Valley of the Gods is definitely worth a visit.