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James Stoness photos
Cypress Hills
Fort Walsh
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James Stoness photos
Cypress Hills
Comfort in Fort Walsh
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James Stoness photos
Cypress Hills
Cattle near Gap Road
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James Stoness photos
Cypress Hills
Love those greens
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James Stoness photos
Cypress Hills
Men prepare for attack
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James Stoness photos
Cypress Hills
Nearing Ft Walsh on Gap Road
Story & photos by James Stoness
The Cypress Hills region along the southern border of Saskatchewan and Alberta is a pleasant oasis after a long drive across the seemingly endless rolling prairies. Actually the Cypress Hills are quite a surprise. They are the highest point between Newfoundland and the Rocky Mountains, with plateau elevations reaching 1390 metres, and rising 600 metres above the surrounding grasslands. The grassy plains turn into evergreen covered hills, cloaked with shade and filled with the pleasant odours of drying needles underfoot.
It was an oasis too for the First Nations who congregated here to hunt, and fish, and to avoid the bad winter weather of the plains. Early white folk found the hills a great place to trap for furs, set up camps and trading posts. Unfortunately this set the stage for some bad times for the First Nations. Unscrupulous men from Ft. Benton, Montana moved in setting up trading posts, and one of their chief trading products was rotgut whisky, which they illegally traded to the First Nations. Other disrespectable men hung around the area and their favourite pastimes were thieving and horse stealing. They had no interest in the First Nations except as a way to make money, and this led indirectly to the Cypress Hills massacre of 1873, which killed more than 20 First Nations men, women, and children.
Prime Minister Sir John A. Macdonald’s government had already created the North West Mounted Police unit knowing that the Cypress Hills were a trouble spot, but it wasn’t until Chief Sitting Bull and a few thousand First Nations arrived in the Cypress Hills after defeating Custer, that the Mounties headed west.
The establishment of Fort Walsh after 1875 in the Cypress Hills gave the North West Mounted Police a headquarters from which to patrol the huge remote area. They did their best to force out the whisky traders, and to settle the problems between the First Nations and the white men. This latter part was difficult because the white men were killing off the buffalo herds that were so important to the First Nations. From the buffalo they got meat, hides, and the sinews were used as threads. The buffalo was a walking supermarket. Fort Walsh became the most active fort and the best-armed fort used by the Mounties in the west.
The Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park forever saves some part of the Cypress Hills, which in recent years had been the site of logging, and ranching. The park is separated into the Centre Block, and an hour away, the West Block. Farther west in Alberta is a third section.
The Hills are the remnants of a huge plateau most of which has disappeared due to erosion. Since they are higher, they are cooler and collect more rain. The result is the growth of green forests while down below are the drier grassland prairies.
These hills have an assortment of plants and animals not generally found on the grassy plains. In fact, there are about 700 species of plants and animals. You can find 14 species of orchids in the park. Even the bigger animals such as elk, moose, deer and antelope visit here.
Recreation is now a major use of the Cypress Hills. Of the three blocks, the Centre Block, south of the TransCanada Highway on Sask-21 is more developed and has 600 campsites, with showers, wood, fire pits, and play areas. The lake, Loch Leven, offers a beach for swimming and paddling and you can even use a power boat as long as the motor is no greater than 5 hp. Attempting fly fishing on the lake may find you taking home a nice trout for lunch. Battle Creek also gives the opportunity to slip up to a quiet pool and fly fish for rainbow, and brown trout.
For a more active day, hike on the more than 40 km of trails, or take your bike. Some of these are very rugged bike trails best saved for the experienced rider. Then you can relax on the nine-hole golf course neatly built into the pine and aspen forest. Irrigation makes the greens and fairways very eye-catching.
The attractive jewel in the west block is Fort Walsh National Historic Park, and is reached using Sask-271. If you are camped at the Centre Block you can try the ‘Gap Road’ a dirt road 23 km shortcut to Fort Walsh. This is an adventurous drive across private ranch lands. I found it twisty, hilly and from the old ruts on the hills it’s obvious that if it rains, you may have to stay stuck in your car until it dries up. I enjoyed the drive through rolling rangeland. To me, it was something like exploring uncharted country. While in the Centre Block you can stop at Bald Butte for a magnificent view to the west, where you gaze down over the escarpment, and to the Gap area where you will soon be driving.
Fort Walsh is built in a valley with the hills providing some protection from the weather. It looks impressive with a long wooden palisade surrounding several buildings inside. Beyond, it’s backdropped by a thick stand of spruce and behind them rolling grasslands with spotted stands of forest.
Once inside you are transported back in time to an era when the Mounties tamed the west. Guides attired in period clothing will show you inside the buildings. It’s impressive to hear the cannon as it’s fired, and to see the armed men preparing for an attack. There are several planned days focusing on different events. Trades Day brings out the blacksmith as he works with hot steel, sparks flying from the blows of his hammer. There are wagon rides for young and old, and food is available too.
Fort Walsh National Historic Park, and the Cypress Hills Interprovincial Park are a little bit off the beaten path and are often overlooked by travellers headed east or west. They are excellent for a slower, less frenetic holiday. There are many things to see and do, but don’t feel that you have to do anything other than enjoy this unique landscape. Put these parks on the list for your next trip in this part of Canada. You won’t regret it!
For extra information: http://www.cypresshills.com/ - Available maps: http://www.saskparks.net/cypresshills