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Dennis Begin
Fernie Ghostrider legend
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KARI MEDIG
Downtown Fernie, BC
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KARI MEDIG
A fly fisher on Bull River, East Kootenays, BC.
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KARI MEDIG
A mountain biker riding Big Money trail over the Elk Valley and Hosmer Mountain. Fernie, BC.
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Destination BC
By Dennis Begin
In the East Kootenay Region of British Columbia there is a small town known for its unique mining history, the Snow Valley Ski Resort, and the Ghostrider Junior B Hockey Team. Located along Highway #3 also called the Crow’s Nest Highway, Fernie is named after William Fernie. He was instrumental in the development of the coal industry from 1887 to 1897, the formation of the Crow’s Nest Pass Coal Company, bringing the Crow’s Nest Southern Railroad to Fernie, as well the Ghostrider Legend.
The City of Fernie actually should have been named Phillipps, as it was Michael Phillipps who first explored the Crowsnest Pass, the Elk Valley, and discovered the main vain of coal at Coal Creek in 1873-74. William Fernie, during that time, was more engrossed in completing the Dwedney Trail and gold mining at Wild Horse Creek near present day Cranbrook. It was not until 1887 that Fernie and his brother Peter, finally became interested in coal.
The Ktunaxa or Kootenai Indians, however, had a very different viewpoint of the development of the Crowsnest Pass and the Elk Valley around Fernie. The Ktunaxa always considered the mountain passes into the valley to be a “…very bad road”, guarded at both ends by the mythological Squirrel, and Craig the Kootenai Ram. Fearing the warlike Blackfoot Indians from Southern Alberta, the Ktunaxa never wanted Phillips or Fernie to develop the valley. The solution was to discourage miners with a story of a dreaded curse.
The written record of this legendary curse first appeared in the 1903 diary of a Roman Catholic Oblate missionary, Father Nicholas Coccola. The story began with William Fernie looking for coal in the Elk Valley in 1887. He noticed that a pretty young woman was wearing a beautiful black necklace made of polished coal. Wanting to know where she found the coal, he embarked on a romantic relationship with the Indian princess. After she revealed the source of the coal, Fernie quickly abandoned her to lay his claim. The jilted young lady was heartbroken and asked her father to place a curse on the scoundrel and the valley. The curse seems to have plagued the valley since then, as the city has suffered two destructive fires in 1904 and 1908, floods in 1916, as well as countless mining disasters.
As a visible symbol of the legendary curse of the Ktunaxa Indians, a large shadow appears on the face of Mount Hosmer during the spring to fall months. The shadow clearly shows the Ghostrider, William Fernie, riding away on a horse with the Indian princess walking/running behind him.
Truth of the Curse
This legendary story of the curse, however, does not match historical records, as it was Michael Phillipps who first explored the Crow’s Nest Pass and discovered coal around Fernie in 1874. William Fernie, on the other hand, did not receive his license to prospect until 1887. He was well aware of the rich coal deposits in the Elk Valley, only 80 km (50 mi) from Wild Horse Creek. In addition, finding coal in the valley is like finding snow in winter…it is everywhere. It should be noted that William Fernie remained a wealthy bachelor, retired in Victoria and died in 1921. So much for the curse!
As for the shadow on Mount Hosmer, the scientific explanation behind the Ghostrider’s shadow is simple to explain. As the sun sets in the west over the Lizard Mountain Range, shadows appear on Mount Hosmer to the east. The natural setting sun has nothing to do with the curse. Addressing the curse, Chief Big Crane of the Ktunaxa Indians and Mayor White of Fernie lifted the curse on the valley in a special ceremony in 1964. Much to the delight of Fernie residents and tourists alike, the shadow of the Ghostrider continues to appear on Mount Hosmer. As to what really happened between William Fernie and that young lady is only conjecture. Having lived in Fernie, I prefer the folk legend version of the story. Facts should not get in the way of a good story.
For RV’ers, Fernie offers two small RV Parks, one at the Snow Valley Motel and the second at the Snowy Peaks RV Park. Fernie RV Resort recently opened for business, located just off Highway #3 and adjacent to the championship golf course. This year ‘round park offers 115 spacious sites, is fully serviced, including a tenting area and twenty-six pull-through sites for the big rigs. In addition, the downtown shopping area is only a few blocks away.
Skiing at Snow Valley dominates the winter months with Griz Days [town mascot] in March. This is a three-day winter festival featuring a night parade, fireworks, live music and events like axe throwing the baby races. Naturally, Fernie beer is the preferred drink. During the summer months, the mountains that encircle the town are used for biking, rafting, fly fishing, canoeing and hiking.
Look over your shoulder at sunset on your next visit to Fernie and the Elk Valley; the Ghostrider and the Princess may be watching you.