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Barb Rees
Haida Gwaii, BC
Kagan Bay
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Haida Gwaii, BC
Balancing Rock
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Barb Rees
Haida Gwaii, BC
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Barb Rees
Haida Gwaii, BC
Haida beach flowers
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Barb Rees
Haida Gwaii, BC
Jungle Beach
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Barb Rees
Haida Gwaii, BC
Moon Over Yakoon bakery
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Barb Rees
Haida Gwaii, BC
Mural in Masset
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Barb Rees
Haida Gwaii, BC
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Haida Gwaii, BC
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Haida Gwaii, BC
Raven dancer
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Barb Rees
Haida Gwaii, BC
Queen Charlotte City
Story & photos by Barb Rees
Known as Queen Charlotte Islands from 1787 until 2010 when the Haida nation handed the name back to the Crown, Haida Gwaii means "Islands of the Haida People." The big islands, Graham Island, in the north where the ferry lands and Moresby Island in the south, are two of 400 islands. Highway 16/Yellowhead highway starts in Winnipeg and ends on Haida Gwaii. www.gohaidagwaii.ca
In 2017 we made our dream to visit Haida Gwaii come true. Unfortunately, our visit began with a rough start because we tried to book a ferry a few weeks in advance. We made the booking online, but we were waitlisted, which meant we had to wait for an opening, and we had to change our travel dates. Our 24' C-Class cost $625 for the six-hour cruise. Pets are not allowed above the car deck, but they do open the deck partway through the trip. The ferry feels luxurious with a huge lounge, movie theatre, kid's area, restaurant, computer area, and staterooms. The staff is friendly and helpful.
We landed in Skidegate, the Haida community on Graham Island. The closest town to this community is Queen Charlotte City, which is just four kilometres away. Skidegate felt like a lot like our home on the Sunshine Coast. It's the only ‘big' shopping area until Masset, along with the only credit union. The Visitor's Centre has interpretative displays, free WIFI, and a gift shop.
All 20 sites in the Haydn Turner Campground were full, so we felt fortunate when we met Dick Bellis, a Haida elder, carver and tour guide. "Follow me" he said, and took us down a logging road to Kagan Bay Recreation Site, a free wilderness camp by the ocean. What a peaceful place to spend our first night, with the bonus of being educated by a Haida elder. Haida are legendary for their argillite carvings, and Dick gave us a great tip about purchasing some, "if the art isn't signed; don't buy it because it wasn't made locally."
We had 10 days to wander 120 km from the ferry to the farthest point north at Tow Hill and back. We didn't take the ferry to Moresby Island because we were watching our budget and we thought that there wouldn't be much to see unless we paid for a tour. Those beautiful pictures in our brochures are from Moresby and Gwaii Haanas.
Gwaii Haanas is a National Park Reserve, National Marine Conservation Area Reserve and Haida Heritage Site — a 5,000 square kilometre area protected from the tops of the mountains to the bottom of the sea. It is accessible by seaplane or boat. You must register and take an orientation session with Parks Canada. The Watchmen looking after the ancient sites are part of a program with the National Parks and the Haida. Interpreters care for the villages, and each sacred site allows a set number of visitors.
Graham Island has lots to see and experience starting with the "Haida Gwaii Museum" at Skidegate. Allow several hours to wander the museum, the grounds, the carving shed, and to try Kay Bistro’s delicious food. No cameras are allowed.
The museum is rich in history with tall totems that reach to the ceiling. Gwaii Haanas guides gave a talk about drying salmon. In the pole-carving shed, a 600-year-old 12m (40 ft) cedar was being carved for the new hospital in Queen Charlotte City.
Skidegate is the Haida village site. It has a gas station, restaurant, and carving shed where we talked with carver Garner Louie. The Spirit Lake Trail hike with Gwaii Haana's park guides was enlightening. Remember to wear good walking shoes for the steep walk.
Misty Meadows Campground next to Naikoon Provincial Park at Tllel has 30 "no service" sites. The $18 fee applies from June 1- September 30, but in the off-season, it's free. Tllel has a music festival.
Port Clements has a fascinating outdoor museum of mining and logging equipment. St. Mark's Anglican Church, built in 1909, is now a gift store of local items. Behind the church grows a Golden Spruce Sapling in a locked fenced area. A rare 50 metre Golden Spruce grew on the banks of the Yakoun River for over 300 years until 1967 when someone cut it down. The people were incensed, so they grafted a seedling and surrounded it by a fence. South of town, Sunset RV & Camping has six RV sites with hydro and four tent sites. It was full, so we camped outside the gate. Boondocking in Haida Gwaii is unofficially accepted. We enjoyed taking pictures from the bird watching tower overlooking the Yakoun River estuary.
Masset is the other ‘big' centre — the hub for the Haida village of Old Masset and Mile 0 for the Yellowhead Highway. We've driven it from start to finish. In Old Masset we visited Haida artist April White's Haida Raven Gallery, who taught us about her heritage.
A delicious eatery in Old Masset is Sherri's Gas Bar and Grill. "We Serve Seafood" is their motto. We enjoyed the halibut fish and chips, along with the crab cakes, but there was much more on the menu including crab mac and cheese, or Kyla's seafood chowder.
Hidden Island RV Park in Masset is the last place RVers can get showers, laundry, and WiFi before heading farther north. We camped there to do just that before going to Agate Beach.
It's only 46 km from Masset to North Beach and Agate Beach, but be aware that 12 km of that is gravel. However, it is worth every pothole to get the chance to camp beside the roaring Pacific Ocean at Agate Beach Provincial Park for $18 a night. There are no services, but that's okay. We went walking in the waves with a dip net to try to catch Dungeness crab. We weren't lucky, but our neighbours were and shared with us. Up the road, Tow Hill gives a panoramic view. Hiellen Longhouse Village has longhouses to stay in and two RV sites in the campground. www.haidalonghouses.ca
On the way to Masset watch for "Moon over Naikoon Bakery" in a painted bus, which is renowned for their cinnamon buns.
On our last night, we parked on the street outside the Visitor's Centre in Queen Charlotte, where the humpback whale sculpture lit up the landscape. We didn't take any tours nor go to Moresby Island, yet we had a relaxing, cultural holiday. Haida Gwaii, a place of ancient history, has something for everyone.
Barb Rees is Métis, a speaker, trainer, and author of five RV Canada books from the working holidays her and husband Dave have made from coast to coast to coast of Canada. Her next book, "RV Canada A Year of Anniversaries" will launch June 2018. She presents at the RV Owners Lifestyle Seminars in Kelowna annually. Her books can be found at: www.write2dream.com