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Rob Stimpson Photography
Upper Canada Village
Upper Canada Village
By James Stoness
In the far eastern corner of Ontario is a short scenic drive. Although only 11 kms long, the Long Sault Parkway excels in its scenic beauty of the St. Lawrence River, its camping and its unusual history. The Parkway is a road joining 11 islands, but the unusual thing is, they were not islands to begin with.
The St. Lawrence River carries all the water of the Great Lakes down to the sea, with the Long Sault rapids being a seething cauldron of dangerous water. In 1843, one of the large steamboats dared the 15 km trip. Surprisingly, it was a bumpy, yet safely done trip. In later years, empty large ships would also bob their speedy way down the rapids towards Montreal, using First Nations as boat pilots because of their knowledge of the rapids. It was no easy task. The smooth river water suddenly turned to froth, and as the river fell quickly at the beginning of the rapids, it became a series of waterfalls, dips, heaving waves, and giant whirlpools. If the river didn’t look scary enough, the roar, sizzles, and gurgling sounds were there to add to the tumult. The river’s bed was also strewn with boulders and the ship’s crew prayed that the water was deep enough to ride over them.
In the early 1900’s, Canada wanted to dam the river, create hydropower, and build deep canals for ocean-going ships. After having the project continually rejected by the powers to the south, Canada decided to build the seaway alone and completely on Canadian soil. Later on, those who had rejected the idea for so long assisted Canada.
Building the project would provide electricity for Ontario and New York State, and involve building three dams and replacing the small 110-year-old Cornwall Canal. They would form a reservoir 50 km long, and at 30 m deep, would flood the Long Sault rapids.
It also flooded several villages, and a large number of farms. Many homes were lifted with huge machinery and relocated to new towns or farms. The moves affected 6,500 people, 200 farms, 17 churches and cemeteries, and 500 homes. The buildings they couldn’t move were destroyed.
When everything settled down, a string of islands broke the surface of the reservoir. These were the hilltops of some of the flooded farms. Interested parties saw the possibilities and in a little while short bridges and causeways joined these island hills, creating a pleasant loop drive. The entire area is now under the control of the St. Lawrence Parks Commission.
Several day-use areas take advantage of open meadows and beaches, and 600 campsites are now spread among 3 campgrounds. Add to this the boat ramps, nature trails, and curving bike trails, and you’ve got the recipe for fun and relaxation. Of course, access to the St. Lawrence River opens vast opportunities to partake in the great fishing that makes the area so well known.
The Mille Roches Beach boasts the largest sandy shoreline and beach along the St. Lawrence. The campground is spread over two islands and is shaded by old growth trees. It has 63 sites, and the largest number of waterfront sites of the 3 campgrounds.
The Woodlands Campground has sites wonderfully located among the big trees and facing the river, which lay claim to the best sunset views in the area. There is a place for large community get-togethers and picnics. If you don’t have an RV, there are two beachfront mini cabins and a three bedroom family lodge.
McClaren Campground has updated about half of their 206 sites, and added a few pull-throughs. They also have five cabins named after the lost villages. We really appreciated the spaciousness between the sites.
If you want to explore the area, you can go back to the time of the early settlers at nearby Upper Canada Village. The Upper Canada Migratory Bird Sanctuary is also close, and the St. Lawrence Power Development Visitor Centre is there to show you the workings of a power dam and generating station. It’s located near the Robert Saunders generating station, in the west end of Cornwall.
The St. Lawrence River and the 1000 Island Region attract thousands of visitors to the area each year. The Parks of the St. Lawrence provide a variety of parks and campgrounds for your enjoyment. You could spend several days seeing them all so maybe it’s time to get started.
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