Omix-Ada helps fix our Exhausting Issues

Exhaust

1 Exhaust

1. At first glance, there only seems like a handful of parts to drop in, it’s getting to the old manifold that is the challenge. The only specialty tool required was a fuel line disconnect tool, and they can be had for around a Sir John A. MacDonald.

2 Exhaust

2. With multiple connections and small parts to be unbolted, care needs to be taken. Our tip is to tag any wire connections and get some sammich bags from mom for collecting and labeling loose parts. Ask mom first, kids.

3 Exhaust

3. The injectors and rails come out as one piece (preferably) and now is a good time to either send them out for testing and cleaning, or replace them with new depending on mileage and condition.

4 Exhaust

4. If you haven’t done so already, now is a good time to get some penetrating lube onto the bolts and let it seep in before trying to bust the bolts loose.

5 Exhaust

5. The power steering pump (if so equipped) needs to be removed from the intake manifold. You do not need to disconnect the pump, but let’s face it, you most likely have never bothered to change the fluid before.

6 Exhaust

6. Any last vacuum connections can be removed.

7 Exhaust

7. The manifold can be unbolted. Undo all the bolts except for the front and rear ones that hold the exhaust manifold and gasket on.

8 Exhaust

8. Alas! The crack addict appears.

9 Exhaust

9. Removal of the flange bolts rarely goes without busting them. Not to worry, they are easily sourced if they break on you.

10 Exhaust

10. Undo the remaining bolts and extricate the offending pipes. Feel free to perform whatever victory dance you prefer.

11 Exhaust

11. The fissures in our example are quite extensive, we have seen them break into two separate pieces before.

12 Exhaust

12. Clean and scrape off the old gasket material with a razor blade or putty knife. Stuffing the ports with paper towel will alleviate the risk of getting debris into the motor.

13 Exhaust

13. Installation is the reverse of these steps. Consult an owner’s manual for the proper torque settings and sequence.

14 Exhaust

14. The Omix-Ada unit is very nice for a DIY install because it bolts up directly to the factory flange with the included gasket. A new O2 sensor should be installed at this point, but we’re not that smart.

15 Exhaust

15. For step two we ordered up a Omix-Ada Cat-back exhaust system for our TJ. The fully welded Cherry Bomb muffler is a stout unit we can bash into rocks and stumps without worry and still has that great sound Cheery Bomb is known for.

16 Exhaust

16. Although not necessary, we chose to drop the transmission cross member to gain more room for the pipe removal. We cut the offending scrap metal just behind the CAT and dropped it like it was hot. Our butchered cuts are courtesy of a hacksaw that couldn’t cut butter and a lack of skill.

17 Exhaust

17. Time to slip the old mounts out of the factory rubber hangers. Try to not destroy them in the process by using a little spray lube on them. Pick your poison, we like ProLong’s formula ourselves.

18 Exhaust

18. Slipping the new tube in the factory hangers is an easy affair once you snake the pipework over the axle

19 Exhaust

19. Cycle the rear and if you can, just to be sure there are no points of contact when on the trail. Having a rig that sounds like a beer can with a rock in it going down the trail is enough to make you do a Picasso impersonation.

20 Exhaust

20. Although we prefer to weld our system in place, we did not have that luxury this time around so the supplied crush clamps were used. Get the positioning of the entire system correct before you cinch it all down. Afterwards, fire you rig up and enjoy the clean, crisp sounds of your new exhaust system!